From the Ashes

Blue Eyed Honkey Jesus

Sunny the Boxer

God's Own Stone

Highway Turtle

The Perfect Pint

Brouwer Power

True Love

Forgive Me Amy, For I Have Sent

Space Junk

Golden Shower

Golden Boy

Amelia's Birthday

Buttsweat & Tears

Green Horn

Decline of Western Civilization

Zone of Silence

Smoothie Nut

Futuristic Testpiece

Chester Fried Chicken

7-11

Herd Mentality

Chicken Boy

Ethics Police

Brilliant Orange

Rebar

Lucky Duck Soup

Pyrite

On the Prowl

David and Goliath

Explanatory Gap

Yakuza

Hot Pursuit

Peer Review

Mona Lisa Overdrive

Erik's Second 5.6

Black Gold

Brambly Downslide

Riptide Ride

Broken Chicken Wing

Slow Jack

Erik's First 5.6

Super Pinch

Supafly

No Fluff

Norway On My Mind

Red Shift

Green Tea

Suns Out Guns Out

Chrysopoeia

Fubar

Buddha Hole

This neglected line is well worth doing, particularly on a hot or crowded day over at the Solar Collector.  Good rock, big moves and a nice building pump and no distinct crux make this a good choice for a warmup as well.

Stick clip the first bolt, then start right of the bolt line.  Positive jugs lead up and left up the steepening wall.  The difficulty comes deciding which of the unchalked holds are good, as they all look the same from below.

Begin with a few bouldery moves and climb up into the large hueco after clipping the 2nd bolt.  Shake out and exit the hueco on the right and climb straight up the face using some smaller holds and pockets.   Keep going to gain a good shake before trending up and left to reach an obvious large hold for another shake.   The top gets a bit steeper, but the holds improve dramatically to the finish.   Nice route with fairly sustained climbing after the hueco.

This shares the first two bolts with Lucky Duck Soup. Travel left after the second bolt to an entertaining finish.

This unlikely looking route follows the gorgeous swath of gold stone on the left end of the wall.  Most of the climbing is surprisingly easy for the grade, but a vicious boulder problem on minuscule holds at mid-height shuts down most attempts.  This route seems to be a popular choice for the first-14a seekers, but successful ascents are still rare.

Splitter crack that is climbed mostly on the face, but has a few crack moves. Fun route.

8 feet of excellent techy vert on small crimps at the first and second bolt. Then some enjoyable 10- featured slab and a small bulge under the chains. The crux might feel impossible at first, then only a little stiff once you do it.

This sick crimpfest will test your ability to adhere to the worst slopey holds imaginable.  Many a Golden Boy suitor has peered to the right to inspect the holds of True Love only to remark that it only has footholds, not handholds. Rest assured, the holds are there, but they require precision and control to hang onto.

Start as for Golden Boy with a few long reaches to a mantle onto a ledge, chalk up and mount the face above.  The first couple bolts will weed out those not up to the challenge, if these moves feel hard, try Golden Boy instead.  The crux, at about mid-height, consists of a V8-9 boulder problem with delicate moves between insecure holds.  Above this, the climbing eases dramatically with an enjoyable series of long reaches between large, slopey pockets.

Climb up solid holds on a positive face to a few thin feet.  Top out on the ledge 50 feet up and move left to anchors.

Begin the same as you would for Superfly, clipping two bolts to your right before entering the restful 'mouth' shared by both routes. From here fire straight up a series of edges and pockets, negotiating a cruxy 4th bolt followed by some steep and interesting climbing to another crux at the 6th both. Finish at the anchor just below the top of the cliff. Great climbing on interesting holds-- distinct from any of the other Solar routes.

A beautiful new route on the right side of Gold Coast that has everything from slab to face to a roof encounter with a a heel hook boulder. This route really has it all. Similar to the gift at long wall.

This may be the best route at the Red, if you care about little things like aesthetics, movement, setting and rock quality. On the unmistakable Gold Coast, this route follows the most distinct line of pockets, dripping down the wall but dwindling to a trickle, not quite reaching the ground.  It clearly has the largest pockets on the wall and, thus, the easiest climbing, but you'll have to survive the characteristic Gold Coast slopey crimps at the start to get to those pockets.  Start in a jumble of boulders, make a few very long moves up to a ledge, then cast off up the gently overhanging face.  The hardest moves are encountered quickly, before the largest pockets are reached, but a stopper redpoint crux lies in wait higher on the route.  Nail this, and you're treated to big fun moves on larger holds to the top.

Some think this route is harder than Black Gold, and surprisingly it resisted a first ascent for much longer than some of the harder routes.  However, it is highly dependent on conditions.  If you've learned that rock climbing should happen when it's 45 degrees and 50% humidity rather than 70 and 70%, then you'll find the grade to be about right.

Step out from the ledge or start from the ground. Make your way to the arete on good holds. Climb this for a few moves then work your way onto the left face and continue up to the anchors. Keep it together for the 15' runout from the last bolt. Stick clip recommended.

A difficult and slabby start leads to interesting climbing using water grooves, high steps, and the occasional smear.  There is a low crux that may be friction dependent and there are a few committing moves up high.  Wait until after a recent rain to climb for full value as the chalk will have washed off.

Climb up to large hueco to a no hands rest.  Pull the roof of the heuco (crux) using good holds.  The rest is easy face climbing to anchors.

This intruiging wall of pockets offers excellent climbing, but is unfortunately marred by contrived bolting.  The author intended for the line to follow a monolithic panel of sparse pockets, and that is where the bolts were placed, despite a plentiful streak of pockets 4 feet right.  The result is problematic whether climbed directly or following the path of least resistance, presenting confusing routefinding for those hoping to climb the original 12c vision, or difficult clips and unpleasant pendilum falls for the rest.  Both lines offer generally shallow and slopey pockets that are not as good as they look from below.  At the top, the lines converge forcing a tricky slab move to reach the anchor.

An excellent dihedral climb that is well worth doing if you're in the area!

Start by climbing a slightly wider section at the bottom to a good rest in a pod.  Look up, ask yourself how you will fit your fingers into the crack, then stem/jam/layback your way up the corner.  Work your way up to the thank-god jam, then finish up to the top of the pillar.

This route climbs the face and arete just right of the chimney. Climb using cool side pulls and pockets to a crimpy section before finishing on better holds to the top.

Herd Mentality ascends a beautiful leaning wall of calico orange sandstone.  The rock here is somewhat slopey, but also offers amazing friction, cool pockets, and a few good crimps.  This line is an excellent endurance route, with a not-too-powerful crux just below mid-height.  There is only one really great rest, that comes before the business, so the real challenge is keeping it together over the last few bolts despite a significant pump.

Begin up a vertical seam with unusual, sequential moves to gain the man-sized hueco.  Mantle into the hole for a sit-down rest.   Exit the left side of the hole, and veer up & left.  The crux hits with a vicious sloper.  Near the second enormous hole, the line veers back right, avoiding the second rest.  The route eases gradually, eventually culminating in long cranks between massive jugs.  Climb into a shallow scoop at the last bolt, before surmounting a final bulge just below the chains.

Technical at the lower portion. Jugs up top. Watch out for the critter!

This line features one of the enormous body-swallowing huecos that this cliff is famous for.  The crux comes with balancy moves exiting this hueco, and apparently a key crimp broke several years ago making this crux a bit more difficult than it used to be, and causing some to suggest that the route is now 12a.  Despite local opinion, the un-sustained nature of the difficulties may make this line seem easier than Buddha Hole if you aren't used to endless jug-hauling.

Begin right of a generally chalk-less gray streak (with the rarely-climbed 12c "Psycopathy").  Small but positive pockets lead up to the big purple sloper rail.  Easy liebacks lead up into the hueco.  Exit the right side of the hueco with difficulty, then make pumpy reaches between slopey holes.  Eventually the wall becomes more featured as you race the pump to the anchor.

Climb the slightly overhanging face and pull over the meet the sustained vertical face with a wild finish.

Rebar is the left leaning splitter crack just to the right of Fubar and to the left of Broken Chicken Wing. Start up Broken Chicken Wing until the cracks diverge. Head left to get into Rebar. I found that if you get into Rebar as soon as possible it makes the transition a lot easier. Move through some solid finger locks and some not so solid finger locks where you'll most likely depend on the sloping edge of the crack for security. Paste your feet and move along until the jugs at the top where a surprise before the anchor awaits.

Climb the well featured bolted slab on the face opposite Rebar. The best climbing is between the line of bolts and the splitter crack (The Perfect Pint 5.4).

For the grade this is a really fun climb.

Right of the Slow Jack corner is this technical face climb with a bulging finish. Stem up the dihedral to the high first bolt, then pull an exciting mantle manuever onto the sloping ledge. From there it's all crimps, high-steps, & sinker pockets to the chains.

Nice slab climb just to the left of an obvious arete. Begin from a small ledge 10 feet above the trail. Use the arete where possible.

Punch through the starting boulder and continue on good features to a small roof. Surmount the roof with a cruxy sequence revolving around a few choice pockets. Finish up climbing from slot to slot until a final, delicate, run-out to reach the chains out right.

Slab moves to difficult roof crux to more slab moves, just left of Golden Showers

A great trad line among the bolted bucket hauls.  Three distinct cruxes pulling out of monster huecos.  Offwidth skills will help in several spots, but especially off the dirt.

Finger crack dihedral leads to a good stance before a small roof.

50 feet right of the trailhead and On the Prowl

Mona Lisa Overdrive is a popular option despite a difficult and potentially dangerous start.  The moves leaving the ground are not too bad, but a perplexing sequence of slopers just below the second bolt often results in exciting air time.  The moves aren't particularly hard, but there is a lot of stray chalk marking pitiful holds.  After a good rest in the hueco, the difficulty eases with relentless jugs lead up the steepening wall to the anchor.

A short crack climb that starts up a short slab and climbs fingers to hand to fist to near-offwidth. Ends at the top of the pillar at chain anchors.

This beautiful streaked wall offers brilliant, sequential reaches on impeccable crimps.  Black Gold is unique from its neighbors in that the holds are virtually all neutral-to-positive, as opposed to the notorious slopey rails found to the right.  Although the line appears reachy from the ground, numerous hard-to-see intermediates offer options for all sizes.

Unfortunately the aesthetic look of the wall is attributed to nearly constant water run-off that makes this line a frustrating project.  If you are lucky enough to find the wall in good conditions, seize the opportunity to enjoy one of the best 13+ routes at the Red.

Begin far to the right, mantling onto a big sandy ledge.  Move left, clip the first draw, then make 3-4 big moves up a heavily featured pillar to a no-hands rest in an alcove.  Move left from the alcove ("God's Own Stone" heads right) up sharp orange stone, making a big reach to a good pocket.  Traverse straight left to enter the black streak, then bolt up & left on great patina crimps to reach a protruding tongue.  Make big cranks on square-cut full-pad crimps to reach the obvious hole near the 7th bolt.  Cruxy moves lead left to the big hueco and a much-needed shake.  Another big reach gains the next rail; move right, clip, then up to a big sloping edge.  Make a hard crank off a tiny crimp, or dyno for the next rail.  A few easier moves lead to big jugs at the anchor.

This is the obvious thin, left-facing dihedral which has a unique hueco about 20 feet up. It is located 50 feet right of Futuristic Testpiece where the trail meets up with the cliff. Or if approaching from Rebar it is about 30 feet left around the corner. Enjoy excellent climbing with challenging gear placements.

good jams up a pretty irregular crack.  Exciting finish on its own anchors or climb a bit further to hang a toprope on rebar (if you're feelin' sand)

30 ft. right of the previous line is this clean dihedral with fun stemming and small gear. Finish below the roof on chain anchors.

Taken from redriverclimbing.com

leftmost of a pair of cracks on either side of pillar (the rightmost is Erik's Second 5.6). hand/fist-y at bottom, OW-y at top.

This pockety route has many choices of holds and pretty much all of them are sharp. The iron rock edges are not just at the lips but there are additional edges inside the pockets. That said you don't have to hold on that hard since the holds will grab your skin for you.

Long pulls between relatively good hold, though the next ne always seems just a bit further than it should be. Quite continuous for the grade and you never really get two good holds side by side or a good hold to match and rest on.

Another excellent endurance test, Supafly climbs a brilliant line of sculpted jugs & slopey crimps.  Begin from a horizontal rail, and work left to a symmetrical pocket, from here a long reach up & right leads to slopey pockets, where another big move gains the bottom of the large hueco on the right.  Mantle into the hueco for a sit-down rest.  Exit the left side of the hueco, traverse left, then head up.  Continue with big moves between great holds, to another good shake on the right, below an intimidating bulge.  A few sequential moves over this bulge lead to a monster jug below the chains.

The top of this line can get wet after heavy rains.

Kind of a silly route considering the neighborhood it's in, nevertheless, this short line allows a taste of the Gold Coast without the sticker shock.

Mountaineer your way up to the base (clipping in the belayer to the first bolt isn't a bad idea). Head up and left clipping bolts while contemplating whether or not the big foot ramp is off route. Eventually leave the ramp and head up on extremely desperate climbing with the everpresent fear of a ledge fall.  Eventually make an awkward mantle onto an insecure ledge to clip the chains.

Slabby face with a big hueco set on the left side of a right facing dihedral. Crimpy, balance moves up to a fun, technical finish.

A proper slab route with a very exciting move at the anchor. Nice technical climbing

Start by pulling a tricky boulder problem and follow the path of least resistance through mild mantles. Get some good gear (small) and make a few big moves on big holds to the chains.

An attractive route on the right side of the Gold Coast with a tough start and finish.

A hard start on rounded edges leads to a huge flake in the corner.  Rest up, then follow disappointing pockets in a shallow groove to a perplexing move past a slopey shelf.

Fun technical climbing with a distinct crux.

Start up the layback crack which is rather difficult to protect at the beginning (and with a bad landing). Continue to move up the flake/crack, using a surprising amount of face holds. Plug a piece of gear at the top of the crack and step into the hueco. Figure out how to move out of the right side of the hueco and join up with Rebar; finish on the same anchor.

Buddha Hole offes two enormous hueco rests, with the upper "Buddha Hole" featuring interesting exit holds.

Positive pockets head up & left to a slopey scoop and a few big moves to gain the bottom of the first hueco.  Mantle into the hole for a good rest.  Exit the upper right side of the hole and follow big slopers to a relatively blank section of gold stone above a small bulge.  Enter the Buddha Hole for a final effortless rest, then exit the left side of the hole on hero jugs.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Solar Collector/Gold Coast