The result of an obscured view and a mistaken impression, the FA, which was done ground-up, on-sight, and while cleaning on lead was not pleasant. The route is still difficult and dangerous, even after this initial passage. Some moves are neat, but not worth hanging out above #1 RPs placed shallow in grainy rock.

A better approach pitch should be found to access '

The Devil's Plaything

.'

Just downhill (right) of the 2 pines growing near the cliff base, you can see a system of flakes rising into a roof. Though this may seem long, it can be traversed to the right with gear overhead (long slings) and without great difficulty. Pull onto the face up and right of the roof (crux, exciting 10b). Continue up a shallow, right-facing corner (tiny, bad gear) and up and left out of this through a broken bulge (2" cam possible after the difficulty) and around left to a ledge (good cams and stoppers) which is traversed up and left to a belay/rap station, at the bottom of '

The Devil's Plaything

.'

A good sling can be arranged around a solid, fully-attached flake here for belay or rap. A very old chunk of worn webbing was found here, only 1/2 of it remaining. It is thought that this might have been part of a rap of the West Face, or possibly as an anchor for an ascent of the pitch above ('

The Devil's Plaything

') after rapping in, which is not hard to do from trees on the ridge above, which can be accessed vie the East Face or the summit ridge after climbing a different route.

Gates Of Hell

Wind Beneath the Devil's Wings

Wings Of Steel

The Devil's Plaything

A 125' route with perhaps 50' of meat and 75' of cruise. But the cruise is pleasant and does not detract from the route at all.

Walk North along the base of the cliff to come to a large inset. There are a few trees at the base, and growing in the wall of the left side. On the right, a long slab with some cracks rises to below a dark red and brown band of rock, which on the left-facing corner of the right side is capped by two roofs. Climb the slab to the first of the two roofs and undercling and jam right under the roof (protect now) to turn the corner and get established in an obtuse dihedral with a tiny seam (no pro now) make a few awkward moves (crux, 10a) to stand up high and reach better holds. Continue in the corner to the second roof, which is easily enough passed by going right below it to a ledge, then up on easy cracks to the summit.

To descend, look Northward to a pine with a sling and ring anchor. Scramble around past this on the back side, then down the low angle rock to reach it. A 60M rope will easily get you down.

A great track from the Collide album, 'Chasing The Ghost.'

Start up a shallow, left-facing corner by stepping up and placing great medium stopper or cam, and an equally great fingerlock, then pull into the corner. Within a meter, the system is given to stiff laybacks with high feet and sections of jamming.  After perhaps 60', the corner which has been hitherto characterized by laybacks is replaced by a system of equally well-protected flakes and cracks. Climb these to near a summit at about 100' up, then place a good directional and traverse hard right along flakes and ledges to reach the rap tree as for '

Wind Beneath The Devil's Wings

' and belay/rap.

This is the best single pitch route on the West Face of the Devil's Wings.

Unlike the approach pitch we took to reach it, this climb sports clean solid rock, excellent movement, and great gear as you would have it for most of the way. Up top, where gear is less frequent (but still solid) the climbing is much easier.

Approach this pitch from below via the route 'Gates Of Hell' or from above, having attained the summit ridge and scrambling into a notch with 2 large trees just above and right of this pitch. A fixed rap (black sling and aluminum ring) is stationed there at the edge... rap in 60' to a ledge and work up and right to the base of this corner.

From the base, where a sling belay can be backed up with small stoppers or tiny cams, move up and place gear from a strenuous stance with odd feet and a good cling side-pull with the right hand... work up on this and crimps to reset a high left foot on the initial section of wall (crux), then work up and into the wide crack. Perfect clean stone will greet you with each move.

At the back of the wide crack, there are good jams and good normal (not wide) gear. Continue for perhaps 70' until the crack ends and you encounter a small ledge below a bulge- place gear and work up and left to go to the summit ridge and work up that for perhaps 30' and belay (now a 130' pitch).

To descend, look down the ridge for perhaps 120' to a notch that is inset 10 deep and set back 10, perhaps 40' long. 2 healthy trees grow here, the one near the edge has a newly refurbished sling and locking biner anchor.  Scramble down to the back of the inset and grab huge jugs to climb down onto the ledge and trees to rap. A single 60M rope will get you all the way to the ground. A 50M will get you easily to the ledge where this pitch started, whereupon you can replace/refurbish the station at the base of the pitch and rap again, to the ground.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Angel's Wings aka Devil's Wings, West Face