This route felt much harder than we expected since the guidebook said it was 5.6.  It is kind of an interesting lead with a lot of stemming and little OW.  The pro is thin until you reach the bottom of the crack, at which point you will spend a lot of time looking in little nooks and crannies for the best place to put pro.  There is a large wedged boulder on top that can be slung for an anchor.  Scramble off down a sandy chimney and walk back around to the base of the crag.

Parole Bored

Hard Time

Dead Man Balking

Fun half-sport, half-trad route.  The crux is protected pretty well by a bolt, but one of the placements after the crux is pretty pumpy.  Once reaching the ledge, it is possible to go left for a few more moves to get to the anchors above Cool Tanned Luke, or right to the anchors above Deck Point Charlie.

A few moves over some chossy stuff get you to the base of the dihedral.  Follow it up and right to a ledge.  It is very fun and protects well.  Go left from the ledge and aim for a bolt.  The climbing finishes with face moves.  If you plan on setting up a TR, bring some long slings to run over the top of the spire from the anchors on Crack Down.  Rap down these anchors as well.

The Gatehouse is a small, but good winter crag.  It gets a lot of afternoon sun and is low on the mountain.  There are 10 routes and they all require gear.  7 of them are 5.10 or harder.  The quality of climbing makes it worth visiting, despite the difficult approach.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Gatehouse