A fun traverse with tricky feet. This climb is unique as it includes a boulder switch about half way through the climb. For the real Smokey Bear, stay as low as possible. Start on the Arete directly across from Mantlelabotomy and work your way right to a top out on the Easy Face across from pancake. (Don't cheat! the small boulders below the climb are NOT on for feet! And neither is the tree root!)

Smokey Bear

Fritz Face

Arete with no Name

The Font

Flake to Nowhere

Pan Cake

Face with no Name

Easy Arete

Easy Face

Puggie So What?

Scorpion

Critter Crack

Earthquake Problem

Mantlelobotomy

Hedge Clipper (aka Spooky)

Scrambled Eggs

Kodas' Corner

Derived but fun.

Up onto a ledge, then carefully lean over to the right using the left edge to grab a large two-handed jug which, using a higher jug, is mantled onto.

Looks like V2 but it's not.  Won't go into too much detail or post a picture because it is a fragile climb, but it's pretty easy to find.

One big undercling. Two small crimps. A little tricky beta.

Be careful with this one, it's changed a lot since I've been working it.

An overhang and a slab - the solution pocket enables palms which are barely there to be reached, then over the lip and up the slab.

A go for it attitude and a foot jam(!) help on this one.

Crux start up flake to crimp hold then a stiff little pull to commitment through some graininess to easy ground and the top.

Sit start up to diagonal rail, then mantle.

Super fun with a go for it attitude.

Up to a big two-handed hold and drive for a hold up and on the left - is it big too?

Go find out....

Recommend trying to not use the matching jug/flake due to the fact that it is very flexy and it makes the sds more of a challenge to not. Get scrunchy.

Opposite side of the ''peak'' has some neat slab to play around on too.

Plenty of options of feet and side pulls/crimps/jugs to the top. A great warm up to lamp and down climb

Jug haul to the top. Pretty straight forward. Great warm up.

Easier if you're tall; a big hold in the middle of the face allows a long reach to be made to a decent dish over the top, stand up and understand why it's called Scorpion - there's a sting in the tail trying to get over the lip.

Note:

Big hold has now gone which has increased the grade from V1 - small crimps now.

Lots of fun:

Jamming and liebacking lead you, unsuspectedly, upwards to the impasse at the top, a two-finger pin scar enables a worrying move (crux) to the rounded but good finishing holds.

Just before January 17th, 1994 this was a lieback flake - it all changed when the Northridge 'Quake hit.

Steep face climbing on flat holds above spikey boulders make this a memorable problem.

A very apt name.

Getting established on this is both strenuous and technical - then there's the crux step up onto the small ledge (which is used as a handhold to start the problem).

Slab and lichen to the top.

Commitment.

Tricky, but cool, moves lead up high to a decent sidepull pinch for the right hand. Welcome to the crux; sloping holds and uncertain feet enable you to squirm over the top.

Traverse that starts on the NE corner of the boulder directly north of Beethoven's.  Starts on good two-hand ledge.  Moves up left to a horizontal band of worsening holds to a very good bird hole.  High step and finish up and left.  Crux is probably getting into the bird hole.  Difficulty varies depending on climber height.  Really fun and pumpy. Exit up the crack and off left.

A Stoney classic.

A hold on the right allows a step through left to lieback up the edge as it curls to the right, then mantle over the top.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Canyon Boulders