This line was started by Joe McLoughlin, but he had to abandon it to attend to romantic responsibilities, leaving it to Ed to finish, hence the name. Climb up ledges that provide weird mantel-ish moves. Grab some decent face holds. Continue up face to anchors using some horizontal cracks and face holds. Note- there are a couple well chocked in blocks that moves if you grab them. You don't need to use them and they have been like that for 25+ years - no need to chalk them up with 'X's or break them up. Good practice for rocky and unstable relationships!Good climb to warm up on if you want to do Three easy pieces and/or squall. Just remember to do more than one lap!

Victim of Love

Pee Wee's Playhouse

Squall

Blustery Day

Frosted Flakes

Three Easy Pieces

Danger

Wierd start leads up a wandering corner to anchor.    A good route for a beginner/significant other that isn't a climber. It isn't that tall, but actually has a couple of climbing moves that'll be fun for them.

A good first lead, well placed bolts and moderate climbing.   Stay to the left of the bolts and you will find secure climbing at 5.4. To the right of the bolts is a little harder at about 5.6. 

  One of the great things about Rumney is that folks bolt moderate lines like this so you can get down the basics of lead climbing before you climb something hard for you. 

This climb is at least a letter grade harder for the short climber.Start out on the ledge right of three easy pieces and get you hands into a nice sharp jug. Make a move and gain some more sharp moves (will be hard for short climbers to make the reach) continue up then move up and left out bigger holds to anchors. Excellent footwork is required for this climb to feel do-able for the shorter climber.I would not suggest this climb for the 5.10 climber with soft gym hands.

This might be the best of the moderate route here.   The moves are up top are a little harder than they look and you will tie on a pump if 5.7 is your limit.   I think what I like so much about this route is the rock quality it just feels nice on the fingers and flows well.

The name says it all.Three Easy Pieces three bolts and lots of nice climbing for a short climb. This is my favorite climb at the Upper Vadar crag. The moves are fun and the holds are good for the most part.   A good first 5.11 if you are just breaking in to the grade (as long as you like steep stuff).

This route is listed in the guidebook but is almost never done. The guide gives it an X rating meaning you could die climbing it if you fall (or pull off the huge loose flake in this case). I finally got around to climbing it today and didn't feel it lived up to the hype as far as danger goes. It was however VERY enjoyable climbing, if a bit short. I'll give it an R rating for the hollow flake but if you can climb gently and place gear in the right spots you should be fine. I'm not recommending it for just anyone but if your likelihood of falling on a straight forward 10a is low and you like a bit of spice, go for it.   

  Just left of the start of 3 easy pieces, climb a corner with a good but tricky red camalot for pro. Move up to a nice ledge and contemplate the crux flake. I placed a couple finger size pieces close to where the fake connects to the rock where it felt pretty solid. Move up in to under cling locks and reach up to the top of the flake for edges that get better the more you move right. You can get good gear here and top it out.

Up and to the right of the Darth Vadar Crag, there is another small cliff with a remarkable variety for its size. no 2 routes of the same grade. This and the shade of tall trees makes this a popular area for beginners and groups of climbers of different levels of ability. Routes range from vertical 5.4 to steep 5.11, and all of them are worth doing though none are truly classic.   This used to be a place to escape the crowds of the Meadows and 5.8 Crag, but the secret got out and it can be quite crowded on a busy day.   The rock quality on many of the moderate routes is not classic Rumney schist, you will find it smoother and easier on the hands. 

  Enjoy.

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Routes in Upper Darth Vadar