In an effort to add some more moderates to Heaven's Gate, I bolted this fun little line on the left side of the Emerald Isle.

Begin at the same start as Laura's Arete, but cut left after standing on the ledge to climb a series of interesting, left-trending jugs which lead to the chimney which is formed between the left wall and this one.  Fight your way out of the compactor, and finish up right to black chains via a balancy crux.

Death Star Compactor

Whiskey Sunrise

Total Levitation

The Photo Route

Ground Bound Hounds

The Compactor

Two Scoops of Drill Dust

Storm Warning

22 Project

Devil in the White City

Total Devastation

Laura's Arete

Adult Supervision

Therapist

20 Project

The Happy Pier

Slack Attack

Mustache Ride

21 Project

Morass Supreme

Whiskey Demise

Quisling

Lumberjack HiJinks

Follow the huge crack up to the squeeze chimney. Squeeze your way up through the compactor with no pro. You probably have to solo it. Somebody probably did this before I did, I just wanted to put it on MP.

This is another thin face climb between the new

Whiskey Demise

and

Slack Attack

. The name and FA information came from Ben Schmidt.

This route climbs the short slab at the top of the Total Devastation gully. Hidden holds lead to one big move, followed by more hidden holds to the top. It has good climbing that should get more traffic.

This is a fun, wandering route up a featured slab. After the initial crux right off the ground, have fun cruising to the top. It is a really fun addition to the wall.

I got on this thinking it was "

Adult Supervison

," the 5.10a to the left. I was also thinking I would warm up on it. Boy was I in for a surprise. This has a very technical, slabby start. I fell a couple times right after clipping the first bolt. I would recommend stick clipping. It is an awkward start and clip. Or at least I was awkward on it. After the second bolt, you have to do a tough mantel onto a good ledge. Then you get a very run out section on easy terrain which could be protected with a 1" cam. Overall, this is a good climb but not the warm-up I thought it was going to be. Needless to say, I was warmed up after this.

With more and more people asking why there are so many hard routes at Heaven's Gate and no easy ones, a few dedicated locals have stepped up to the plate to start filling in this great area.

Start up the low angle slab making relatively easy moves to a rest on a ledge.  Make a tenuous, long reach off a high foot and rock up on to the slab, and climb small, incut, water sculpted patinas up and left via a sloper crux to a flat edge below the anchors. This last crux may feel desperate and run out, but the fall is very safe and it beats the alternative up heading up right (which looks easier until to get there).

Storm Warning is a fun warm-up on the left side of the main wall. It is a very safe option for someone learning to lead. Clip the last bolt of

Adult Supervision

, and head to the shared anchors.

Traverse the sweeping arete, and then throw to the lip. This has strenuous bouldering to the chains.

Very delicate climbing punctuates the first half of this route.  Afterwards, enjoy the great rock and exposure. This is a fun, longer route at the wall.

Total Devastation has power climbing up the obvious, nearly blank, overhanging face.

This route is published in Ben Schmitt's Elevenmile Canyon guidebook -- which I highly recommend.  The route climbs well-featured rock with a crux up high that requires a balancy move on small edges.  It is a challenging but well-protected climb for someone breaking into leading 5.9 sport routes.

This route is published in Ben Schmitt's Elevenmile guidebook, which I highly recommend.  Begin with a 5.9ish start off the ground on thin edges for your feet over to a scoop in the rock.  Smear past the well-protected crux near the 2nd bolt over the top lip of the scoop.  Complete the climb on easier rock with hands as well as feet the rest of the way to the anchors.

Sometimes excellent lines get bolted absolutely horribly, and this route (and three others at this area) were the unfortunate victims of a climber who needs to take a long hard look at his bolting education before putting up more routes.  After two days of solid effort cleaning, chopping, and replacing bad bolts, this overlooked gem is now finally good to climb....

Begin on a slab and clip two bolts to gain a small break before launching off out the overhang.  The crux is either a huge dyno to a good, left hand jug (or a powerful pull off a small crimp) which deposits you over the roof and yields fun 5.9 climbing to the top.  This route was described by a local climber saying,  "It went from horrible death climbing to an area classic".  Enjoy!

This is a project up the left side arete. It has amazing features and BIG pulls.  Expect this to be hard 12 or easy 13.

An awkward, cruxy start leads to easier (but steeper) juggy climbing.

An incredibly delicate and thin start leads to a pair of amazing pockets and a no hands rest. After recovering, head up and right. Move past the bulge on patina edges to the anchors. Once you get past the first two bolts of crumbly rock, the holds are great. I'm not sure of the grade, but it definitely felt harder than

Morass Supreme

(12a) and Quisling (12b). It feels somewhere between 11+ and 12-.

Climb the low angle slab to a crux pulling around the brief roof to gain a right-facing dihedral.  Clip a couple more bolts, and exit left to anchors on the roof above the ledge.

This is a linkup between

20 Project

and

22 Project

. Start on the arete, and traverse the lip to finish on

22 Project

. It should be an easy 13.

Morass Supreme shares the same start with "Total Devastation". Carefully balance your way to the first clip. Then it's game on with powerful sidepulls on a dinosaur-like scale to a good edge and second bolt. Then you move right into a balanced, technical crux around the third bolt. Once you pull through the crux, the rest of the route eases up significantly with nice sidepulls and edges to the anchors. This is a fun climb that left me climbing the easier terrain to the anchors pumped and smiling.

This is a new project in between

Ground Bound Hounds

and

Whiskey Sunrise

. A very difficult beginning leads to sustained climbing above. Expect this to be in the hard 12+ to easy 13- range when completed.

Update: FA 2018 C.Kane "Whiskey Demise". If

you love technical, strenuous and sequential climbing on small sharp crimps and

imaginary foot holds this is a 3 star route!

Quisling is a short power problem up the face of the leaning boulder. Although short, this is a great route with great features.

Start in the narrow canyon formed from the Quisling Boulder leaning against the main wall. It is best described as an adventure route. Trust your feet, and use all 3 walls to summit the leaning boulder. This was named after the exciting tree locating that used to live in the crack.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Emerald Isle