Technical smears and under-clings pull up to a slight over hanging layer of rock, pass the featured flakes to a horizontal crack and pull the last few holds to the anchor.   

  Rated the same as 'The Broon' in the black book, however, when these pics were taken, all 6 people in my group finished 'The Broon', but only two of us were able to complete this climb.

The Boila

Guinness

Brown Ale

The Broon

Full Sail

Mission Accomplished

Pale Ale

The One the Only

Warrantless Wiretap

This route is located on the left side of the wall about 30' into the canyon. It is a very obvious left facing corner.

Good route...almost as good as the Beer.   Just left of Full Sail. 

  The crux is in the first 3 bolts.  It looks a little chossy in that area too...but it's all good.  The distance between the 4th and 5th bolt does not appear to create any groundfall potential...but could make for a fun whipper.  The climbing above the 4th bolt is easy (5.9?), but there is a 15-20 foot run to the chains to keep things fun (5.6ish for this portion).

Sustained and fun with a couple of decent rests, this route has a sting in its tail with a crux at the top. Good incut crimps, nice varnish.

Interesting choppy crack with enjoyable stem and lie-back maneuvers.  Quite short, but full of an abundance of formations that allow any beginner with will-power to scramble up it with a smile.  Feels easier if you have crack climbing experience.

The far right route; a bouldery, bulgy start gives way to a relaxing 5.9 finish. Easier for the tall.

This route is located at the far right (north) end of the wall. It shares anchors with Warrantless Wiretap. Climb the face directly in line below the anchors.

Fun climbing on so-so rock. This one is pumpy, good steep rock technique will help you out-the rests are there.

This route is located at the extreme right (north) end of the wall. Follow a large curving flake past a bolt, over a bulge - crux -, past three more bolts to bolted anchors. This route shares anchors with Mission Accomplished.

This wall is located almost exactly halfway between the first and second pullouts, and can be approached from either in about 15 minutes. The wall is located at the very bottom of the wash directly below the Ultraman Wall. 

  Variety of routes from moderate top-ropes to short 10+-11+ sport routes.  Shady-- a nice spot to hide from the sun. Rock is chossy at the start and cleans up nicely the higher you go.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Newcastle Crag