Start matched on a right facing sidepull and some poor feet. Make a few hard moves to join the stand. A decent problem that hides in the shadows of the popular classics nearby, but should deserve more attention.

Dripper Low Start

Dripper

Smoking

Les Trois Maunets

High Plains Drifter

Change of Knobs

Change of Heart

The Knobs

East Face Sit

Start all the way left on the Northwest Face, a few feet to the left to the start of Knobs. Head up the Arete before going back right to join up with the topout of the other climbs. Finish the topout line.

Climb the patina on the face, mantle, then finish with the crack to the top

One of the longest and hardest traverses in the Buttermilks.

Start sitting with two diagonal sidepulls. Traverse right and turn the corner making difficult moves to sharp edges. Continue past The Knobs and make a hard drop down move into the start of High Plains Drifter. Finish up that problem.

Adds about 17 hand moves into the start of High Plains Drifter. A true power endurance test piece.

Start with sharp patina crimps and make some long pulls slightly up and right to gain a couple of slopers. Make a dynamic move off the slopes to gain better holds and an easy, but airy summit.This problem is a North American classic and a must do for the visiting boulderer.As a note of trivia, John Sherman referred to this problem as a benchmark standard for V6 in the first edition of his Hueco guide when he initially introduced the V-scale. However, Sherman was actually referring to Change of Heart, the direct line from the same start as High Plains Drifter. The guidebook at the time mixed up the two names, so most people thought HPD was actually CoH, until Dale Bard (the first ascentionist of both routes) cleared up the confusion.

Start as for "Change of Heart" on incut crimps. Campus up a high toe and make hard moves out left using a lot of core tension and finger strength. After a few moves come in to a right hand undercling and make a hard deadpoint to a big sloping hold. From here finish up "Knobs" with a few more hard moves leading to easier terrain.

Some say it is harder than HPD some say it is easier. I think it is easier.

Same start as HPD but go straight up. Long lock-off to good crimp, followed by pinches and a blind push to a decent sloper.

Start at good crimps about 5 feet left of High Plains Drifter / Change of Heart. Make a couple moves straight up, then throw a right heel hook on the large knob feature and then rock over to make a long reach to gain a decent right hand hold. Harder if you're short.

A rarely done but good problem on crimp rails. Sit start matched and make a few moves rightwards then execute a big lock-off up to a decent crimp for the left hand. From here make your way over the angle change to gain the featured slab before topping out high above the deck but in easy terrain.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Drifter/Smoking Boulder