Cool featured route, down low have sweet mini tufa holds, climb to dirty ledge. Pull jugs to get on wall. Good face climb with great holds.

The Fellowship

Flight From Mordor

Halfling's Leaf

My Precious

Elvin Beauty

Dwarven Greed

Worm Tounge

Hello World

Fallohide

Snagglefarkin'

One Ring to Rule Them All

Dwarves Rule

Ringbearer

Orc's Drool

Shelob

Hello World extension

A Mortal Life

Bilbo's Bag

Tookish

Mystic Wonder

Troll Teeth

Hobbit Hole

Mines Of Moria

Middle Earth Cave

Smeagol

Earth's End

Amazing Legacy of J.R.R. Tolkein

Blood of Dwarves

To the right of the roof capped dihedral that marks the end of Mossy Wall and the beginning of Middle Earth Wall.  Easy 5.9ish climbing up big holds over the mud ledge to a difficult behind your head clip and some delicate long moves over the bulge  Distinguishable by the blank scooping bulge at the top.

Left of Troll Teeth. First route on the big open book dihedral on the Middle Earth Wall.

Climb bolt line up the thin crack.  First bolt is between the two horizontal and very wide cracks lower on the wall.  Route is almost vertical.

Nice climb to set up a top rope for Middle Earth Cave

Nice route. Crux is right before the top. You just have to look for the holds. Might not be noticeable off the bat.

Start Mines of Moria which is to the right of Moria Cave, at bolt three, start traversing over to Ringbearer 5th bolt which is a permadraw, and continue right towards Dwarves Rule 5th bolt which is located on small roof, pull the roof and finish on Dwarves Rule's anchors. This is a variation route of the Mines of Moria.

Has a PG rating in Austin Climbing for "bolt 3 is somewhat runout but on easy moves"

Climbs left of the Moria Cave. One has been known to use the opposing wall to chimney start this route.

Fun climbing up big holds. There is a feature to the right of the route that looks like someone took a giant core sample out of the wall. That can be used for interesting holds.

Starts a few feet right of the first bolt with a high right foot on the obvious point/edge. Follow up the right side of the bolts, using the left edge of the huge huecos if you want. Alternatively, follow the bolt line straight up on thin edges, crimps, and craters. Feels a little easier than the grade with the huecos, and a little harder following the bolt line directly.

All bolts are run out. If your not comfortable leading 5.8...this route could be realy dicey. Any falls would result in pain, if not injury.

As most of the routes in this section of middle earth, pull up to the wall from the ledge below. First three bolts are close to protect from decking on boulder below. Slight runout to bolt 4 and then 5. If you don't have a good belay, if you take a fall on 4, can possibly deck on boulder below. Crux is near bolt 4, and then you have to pull the small roof to reach anchors. Climbs the left side of the water streak.

Climb two black tufas, then thru the roof.  This route gets an 'R' rating because a fall before clipping the 3rd bolt could result in hitting the boulder at the base.  Belayer must be attentive to avoid letting that happen.

Climbs to the right of the water streak. It's anchors are on the right side of the roofs. Last bolt to anchors is slightly run out, be careful.

Solid holds, most are thin and sharp, great friction. Two great underclings(occupied by daddy longlegs), one at the at the beginning and the other a few moves later.

Starts and climbs Hello World left of Moria Cave. However, this route is an extension. When you get to the first anchors, continue up on one more bolt above the small roof. To minimize rope drag, bring a long draw or runner to help reduce drag. A second set of anchors are above the last bolt. Crux is definitely pulling the roof...but makes the route so much better.

Another good warmup route if you're in the area. Crux def the start and can be right before the anchors if you don't see the holds. Might be a little problematic if you're not at least a solid high 10 climber.

A bunchy of good pockets lead up to a small roof. Get over that and your at the chains.  

  Found in between The Fellowship and Elvin Beauty. Bolt 1 is pretty high up there and you have to pull on some pretty lousy holds to get up to it.

Climb to first high bolt on easy climbing. Route heads to the right after 3rd bolt.

Shares TR anchors with Halfling's Leaf.    Start just inside the cave. face out and work the right arête around onto the right face

Fun warm up on easy climbing. Big holds all the way up. Angle gets lower as you climb up.

Start to the right of the giant chimney crack that makes up "Hello World".  Climb through easy moves on big holds to the roof at the top.  Large holds and fun footwork at the top make for some fun thuggish moves to the chains

Has a R rating in the Austin Climbing book for "bolt 3 being runout on hard moves"

Starts at the very end near Wall of Insanity.  Easy climbing up to the third bolt where you can sit on the ledge to rest before pulling a crux move over the roof.  Runs out on easy climbing until the 4th bolt before clipping anchor.

Nice warmup route if you're in the area. Crux is the start.

Start on ledge with some pretty cool formations. May share climbing space with Tookish.

Morning shade.  Home to many easy and moderate routes. At least here the mud-ledge is less muddy and pronounced.  The wall can be distinguished by the large chimney that makes up "Hello World" to the right and the far left dihedral that is capped by a small roof.  This dihedral is considered part of Mossy Wall, which is around the left corner.  Routes on the far left dihedral start in a corridor between the wall and a giant block (some start on top of the block)

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Middle Earth Wall