Extension to Middle Man.  Climb Clips to Middle Man, clip one of the chains and take off into a 3 bolt bouldery crux.  Big moves with thin holds make for a very fun and engaging crux high on the route.  One of the best and more challenging routes on the wall

Munchies

Drunk As A Skunk

When Vegans Attack

Middle Man

Koona

Time Will Tell

Al's Diner

Bean Fiddler

Baked Potato

Little Black Spot

Hydroponics

Don't Stop Retrievin'

Ghost in the Shell

Stems and Seeds

White Rhino

S Curve

Bolt to Bolt Sailsman (aka: Virgins of Howe)

And The Thunder Rolls

Bad Ass Weed

Yukon Gold

Seven Arrows

Bong's Away (aka: Clips from the Bong)

Two Hitter Quitter

Prompt Critical

Koona Kahuna

Positive pockets most of the way, to a crux just below the last clip. Make sure to find the two finger jugs!

Longer and slightly stiffer than Hydroponics (aka Standard/Warm up #2), this is a fun, slightly thin slab.

One of the better warm-ups on the head wall. 11b to the first set of anchors. 11c if you continue though the slab to the upper anchors. Long moves on good holds.

A shorter route on the headwall, long moves on good holds with a tricky crux on smaller feet.

Great line of pocket pulling that shares the finish with The Bean Fiddler. A very worthy route that is on par with The Bean Fiddler with a easier crux.

Easier climbing on bigger holds lead to a marginal rest, then the crux at mid height where you can get settled on the 'shocker monos' (index and pinky) or a double set of marginal crimps. Either way you have to make a BIG move to a nice pocket to clip (big for me at 5'8", -2). Find your way through a multitude of interesting holds and either escape right of the bolt line in easier, but harder to read grey rock, or use the nice pockets up the face for a little harder finish.

Despite the whimsical name, this route is a challenge!

Tree stump marks the start of this climb.

A terrific direct finish to Yukon Gold.  Clip the first six bolts of Yukon Gold to the giant pod hueco.  Instead of heading up the right side of the pod to the shared anchor, continue up the left side of the pod past four more bolts of amazing climbing.  The crux of the route is still at the fifth bolt, but the new finish is much more satisfying than the Yukon Gold finish.

Starts out mellow to a bit of an awkward move out right, then though some smaller hard to find holds to a good slab. Good Route. Don't let people hate on this route it is not as bad as people say. Fun holds and movement.

A worthy warm up which is not quite as sharp as those to the right.  Fun movement and tight bolting where you clip the last bolt just 8" from the anchors.  As you struggle to clip the anchors you'll realize two things: 1) why the last clip was so close and 2) there is a big jug up and right of the anchors.

The headwall has a 5.10!  Begin by clipping the first four bolts on 'S Curve' but instead of traversing way out right, continue straight up the easy slab on perfect rock.

AKA (Line of Weakness) Quite sharp but good movement. Short route, but a good warm up for the head wall if the others are taken. The extension is Bad Ass Weed 5.12a.

More fun 12a pocket climbing. Follow a white water streak straight up and to the right of the large pod on Yukon Gold.

Starts on the leftmost part of the Headwall down the hill a bit from Ghost in the Shell. It climbs up and right to a ledge on somewhat sharp rock. At the ledge it goes up and continues right towards the crack on incredible pockets. It then trends left and up to chains.

A somewhat cryptic off balance route.  A few big reaches and a technical sections will see you to the chains

head straight up easier climbing with some interesting moves and amazing crimps to a hard crux with bad feet.  After you stick the crux moves, crimp your way to the top.

(aka Line of Weakness)

11a (Stems and Seeds) to the first set of anchors, 12a to the top. 11a part is quite sharp but good movement, the top climbs well with a very distinct crux.

Start directly below a large pod about 50 ft up.  Climb up fun pockets with a couple big moves to a good rest.  Make a very difficult crux move (can be done several ways).  Once at the large pod move slightly right and meet up with White Rhino.

Tall! This route goes to the top. Climb the pockets and finish on thin slab.

A more unique line at the headwall, this thing is sustained for the majority of the lower section and lets up a bit towards the top. Great line that climbs various features. Rad!

Fun little route with a couple reachy cruxes.

A 3 bolt extension to the rad Koona, move left after the anchor of Koona on good holds to a delicate finish. Good stuff. Just adds more climbing to a good route, doesn't increase the grade.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Head Wall