This stunning sport line climbs a water streak on widely varying terrain.  It's almost as if someone took a stunning, old school line from Ceüse or Verdon and plonked it on the Backside.  This is a stout line, and it will test your head, stamina, and footwork. 

  After climbing one of more sandbagged 5.10's in Smith, tricky crimping leads to arete where a rest can be found.  A tricky clip and some intense pulling on side pulls and pockets leads to a dash to the next clipping stance.  Rest here and get psyched, if you screw up the sequence pulling on to the slab you'll be clocking some air time!  After a much needed respite, the final two bolts tackle a physical overhang on good holds.

Lords of Karma

Don't tread on me finish

Cling On

A Desperate Man

Notice to Appear

Split Image

Hemp Liberation

Reptile

Iguanas on Elm Street

Made in the Shade

Cobra Commander

Don't Tread On Me

P1 - 8 bolts, Start on knobs in the crack/corner and quickly step right onto the grey slab. Climb passable rock up and right through a slabby crux (5.9). Continue up and right on moderate knobs past a few bolts, to a good foot ledge on the arete, below a large roof.P2 - 9 bolts, Step right onto the river (northwest) face of Snake Rock. Make fun, moderate moves on a knobby slab, clipping 6 bolts and passing a few ledges to a good rest before the business. The crux bulge is a small hanging dihedral with great exposure in a cool position. Climb a technical sequence on positive holds past 3 bolts, facing clean falls. A series of pockets in vertical stone leads to a comfortable mantle onto the summit. Belay on two offset bolts a few feet back from the edge. There's a rappel station closer to the very top of the feature that drops you directly back to the 1st pitch anchors.

This extesion isn't climbed super often because those that climb the start usually can't climb this grade and those that can don't bother with the start. If you are here, you might as well add two bolts to your route and some tiny nubbin bouldering.

Cling On is a three pitch route but most parties only climb the first pitch (5.8).  The crux of the first pitch is making the first few moves to the obvious handholds in the huecos.  Pitch two climbs up (5.9) and then out right on a traverse (5.5)to the first belay of The Snake.  Pitch three (5.9) ascends the upper pitch of The Snake.

A short route up an overlapping series of vertical cracks systems leads to obvious anchor bolts.

An ultra classic arete with continuous thin technical moves.  Originally climbed  mostly on the right side, easier but still challenging starting moves on the left-center lead to a thin ledge.  From here, the arete and tiny holds provide continuously difficult, technical moves up until just a little ways before the anchors.

This varied route is a first pitch that leads to a 2nd pitch (Lords  of Karma- 12c).  It's however, a very worthwhile jaunt in itself.  It starts with easier pockets leading to a tricky traverse right and  committing moves in the roof section as you move right to better holds(crux).  A roof pull-over leads to easier finishing moves to the anchors.

This dihedral has a crux start and a crux pulling the bulge up higher. although the route is forgettable compared to surrounding routes, the moves do leave you satisfied with your decision to rope up.

This relatively short sport climb starts with a funky steep overhanging section before straightening out.  Good holds and rests abound.

This route is in the shade pretty much all day. Start by making the crux moves off small crimps to the first bolt. Cheater stones are usually stacked to make the reach to the starting holds a bit easier. (Moves off the ground are doable using a small undercling and shallow pocket, your choice) After reaching the starting holds, make a few hard moves to get to the first bolt. After you reach the first bolt, the climbing turns much easier.

Step onto the slab, clip the first bolt and then negotiate the route using the slab face and arete to reach a ledge.  Clip the easy to reach bolt and then step left onto the face. Climb past one more bolt to the anchors.  An option is to leave the ledge by climbing the short overhang (5.10-) straight towards the anchors.

This West Side area has a classic arete (Split Image) and several other worthwhile routes.  It has shade in the morning and sun in the afternoon.  Made in the Shade (12c-sport) and the 1st pitch of Cling On (5.8-trad) stay in the shade all day long.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in (n) Snake Rock