This is the left of two bolted routes near the center of this crag.  It follows a shallow open book. Great small crimps and a few reachy spots on steep granite. Crux comes towards the last 2 bolts. Don't expect alot of good rests from here on out.  Push through quick or you will regret being this pumped and so close yet so far from the anchor!

Rushmore Bar

Schist Traverse

Kevin's Influences

Brian's Dihedral

Keystone Wise Crack (Left Fork)

Bein's Toprope

Neon Ghost Town

Keystone Wise Crack (Right Fork)

Rognile Dihedral

Lo Shu

Whose Line is it Anyway?

An excellent problem for getting a good pump exists at the base of the route Kevin's Influences on Rubik's Ridge.  Traverse (best from right to left) on the large schist holds on the overhanging rock.  The problem can be quite long, and should be obvious by previous chalk. 

  I am sure this has been done many times before.  If anyone knows of a name for it, please let me know. 

This route is the leftmost bolted route on Rubik's Ridge.It climbs the large bolted overhang on the northwest end of the crag. This is in the obvious cave like feature on the formation directly behind where you park. This area offers great bouldering on rainy or snowy days. Some people even boulder up a couple of bolts before bailing. This route has huge jug holds for the beginning. At the bulge expect some smaller crystal pinching and crimps. Anchor is just out of sight above the bulge. There is also a TR 5.13 that goes through the middle that Kevin Bein did refered to as the "Direct".

This route follows a right facing dihedral about 50' south of Kevin's Influences. A great first lead the crack itself is pretty clean. It offers everything a crack climb should be even with a cool overhang to pull. If this thing was longer it would be classic. Takes lots of gear in the crack and something small up on the headwall to the anchor.

There is a crack to the right of Neon Ghost Towns that forms the shape of a "Y".Climb the left fork of the "Y".This pitch should provide a nice pump for the grade.

This route is basically a direct line thru the overhang just left of Kevin's Influences starting in about the same place.

This is the right route of two bolted routes near the center of the crag.  Climb the overhanging flake. Follow up solid granite holds to the bottom of the steep slightly overhung headwell. This route has great holds the main thing you are fighting is a decent pump from the steep upper section. Straight forward on good holds but steep!

This climb takes the right fork of the "Y" crack just right of Neon Ghost Towns.We originally rated this route 5.10+ but have since been convinced by other climbers that is worthy of a 5.11 rating.Most people who climb it top rope it.The last 15' is very scary on the lead.The fall from the crux is clean but long.The gear is tedious to place.

While this thing is pretty mungy/licheny in spots, it is actually a fun easy little trad route. Some enjoyable  stemming, lay backs, step backs, good feet everywhere you'd want them, and some bomber handholds when it steepens at the top. Unexpectedly good, this route just needs some traffic and a little love-and maybe some anchors? Would make a nice warm-up for the many harder crack routes in the area.Check out the weird horizontal little tree!

Starts on face on good holds. Crux comes between 2nd-3rd bolt. There are only 3 bolts still a little tricky after the 3rd bolt as you get higher it eases off.  The last 25-30ft is unprotected. A fall wouldn't be a good idea as its in a corridor and you will certainly deck. This route feels Bouldery if anything.

Listed as mixed in Burr and Busse, this route will probably be done more often as a sport route. To climb the route this way, a stick clip is definitely recommended for the tough bouldery start pulling over the double roof sequence- which is the climb's 9+ crux. Work your way up, passing the first roof on smeary feet and good hands, to the steep side pull/layback hold for the left hand at the 2nd roof, reach over the 2nd roof to find the crimp rail for the right, bump the feet up,go way right with the right foot, reset on the rail, and gun for a second good crimp rail up and right; this is a big move. Pull over the 2nd roof and establish yourself on the slab. Much of the rest of the climbing is 7-8 ish, but there are two sub-crux 9 ish sections, one maneuvering between two iffy flakes, and a higher crimp/stem section. As with nearly everything at Rushmore put up by Mark Strege, bolts are plentiful and very well placed in all cases. Really like this climb. Great movement throughout!

Rubik's Ridge is the fairly large rock on the east side of the road.  The bottom of the rock tends to have overhangs or roofs on most of its west face.  Routes include tough bolted routes (5.12 and up) and moderate to difficult gear protected cracks.

Description

Protection

Routes in Rubiks Ridge