Use two starting pockets down low with good feet then move up to the slopey diagonal crack. Use a series of crimps to move up left and up over the top of the lip. Rock is bulletproof. 

Leaning Left

Phallus Project

Satans Camel Toe

This is a project yet to be done left of "Leaning Left" on the Phallus on the Prairie Boulder that starts lower down on a big rail and goes up to a dish, then compression up small crimps and a pocket to get over the overhanging lip. 

Start with hand jams at the lowest point of the boulder. Find gear where you can and move through the roof crack till you reach the large sloppy jug. From here pull over the jug into the vertical crack and up to the top out. Note: Trad gear only keeps you from falling off the cliff, not off the deck. A spotter and a crash pad are not bad to have for this route. The walk off is a bit sketch, bring a buddy to stand on. 

Check out the new guidebook Refuge Bouldering by Ryan Sheldon for info on this area and the climbs there. I am putting this up solely for a few trad routes I put in this area

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Protection

Routes in Middle Earth