This is a new Alvino Pon route.  "Center Slab" is a temporary name until the real name is known.

The route goes up the slab between Full Nelson Reilly and Dire Spire.

Begin at the big tree next to the rock.  The first bolt is about 15' up and a little left of the tree.

Climb up behind the tree, clip the first bolt, and work up left to a ledge with a ring bolt. Climb up the slab and a shallow crack.  Continue up the slab to the right edge of the roof, pass the roof on the right, and angle up left to the anchors.

The leader can belay the second from a good ledge at the two-bolt anchor.  Rappel 95' back to the start.

Two stars for clean rock, continuity, and good moves.

Center Slab

Hire Spire

Full Nelson Reilly II

Blow Chow

Spire-A-Jyra

Dire Spire

Follow the crack to the right of "Dire Spire".

Headed up to Spire Rock to climb Full Nelson Reilly.  Just blasted up the middle of the face instead of the left side (as in Full Nelson proper).  Climbing was fairly protectable (5.7/5.8).  Joined Full Nelson Reilly at the roof.  Clipped the single bolt and finished at the chains.  Very fun steep crux, moving out from under the roof was exciting, the face had a real alpine feel.

Follow the crack to the right of "Higher Spire".

This is a new Alvino Pon route.  "Right Arete" is a temporary name until the real name is known.

From the ledge with the big tree, scramble up a loose gully to a small ledge on the right side of the Spire. The first bolt is about 10' above this ledge.

Follow a line of 5 bolts and 2 pins up the arete to the top.  A #1 Camalot can be placed after the third bolt, and the second pin can be backed up with a #.75 Camalot.

The moves up the arete are fun 5.8 to 5.9.

The crux is at the top: a bulging overhang, with a reachy move to get past it.  The difficulty of this move is height-dependent, and may be harder than 5.10a for shorter people.

The leader can belay the second from a good ledge with a 2-bolt anchor at the top.  Rappel 80' back to the start.

Two stars for clean rock, good moves, airy position, and an exciting crux.

Ascend the crack running up the center of the spire, directly behind the tree on the ledge.

Description

Protection

Routes in The Spire