crack skills will help a bit on this one, but are not required as you can lieback. feels more solid for me to lead than the other 5.9's at b belt

Love Crack

wandering, but not lost

Environmental Terrorist

Spread Eagle

Nuke the Whales

Rim Job (1st Anchor)

Worm Drive

Pocket Dance

Bloody Pawprints

Love Over Gold

Numb & Number

Wedge-O

Quest

Love Stinks

Makayla

The New Monsters of Rock

Hip Pockets

Butt Wipe

Paradise

Love Handles

Range of Light

Nothern Lite

Monsters of Rock

Fun steep new route, pretty clean for brand new Owens routes.

crux at 4th bolt. super fun. this is my daily warmup when down at the belt

Thin slab moves to not-as-thin crux to typical Owens face climbing.

climb positive  crimps to the top of the block. Stem left to the crack and climb up and left of the crack. That was the crux. The finish may have a 10a move depending on which way you go.

Climb the right side of a short block, then up a face to a Gold headwall.

12 bolts. Crux is between the 2nd and 3rd bolts on the head wall. excellent quality rock. You can stem off the opposite wall of the chimney in places.  Wear a helmet. It's possible to glance off the opposite wall if you fall.

Start as for Rim Job but take the right bolt line and follow steepening jugs and pockets all the way to the top of the wall. Surely a contender for the best of its grade in the Gorge, this route has become an instant classic.

A great route with 3 very different sections. First, strenuous moves getting around and over the roof. Second, getting over the tricky crux bulge. Then after a bit of easier terrain, manage the pump following sequential pockets up the awesome face to the anchor.

vertical climbing in a chimney. Stem to 3rd bolt then transition to face climbing. Go right to the arete a few bolts from the top for easy climbing. Lots of big holds. it's possible to glance off the opposite side of the chimney if you fall. Wear a helmet. The crux is about 2/3rd of the way up.

Climb pillar, then step to main face at slightly chossy section. Head up the steep face after this.

Short an a bit spooky but worth doing to set up the TR on Bloody Pawprints.

Very long and steep climb. Thin crux down low (which can be avoided by climbing way right) to steep jug haul to pumpy bulge.

Somewhat fun climbing on friable rock- tho the saving grace is that there are plenty of bolts. Crux is a long reach move several bolts from the top. Should have ended the route on the 2nd to last lead bolt. Debatable, in the beginning, if it would ever totally clean up, but seems to be heading there.

Climb the same Monsters of Rock route but now take it to 35m rather than ending at an arbitrary anchor at 50'. Bolts were moved/added to make for a classic and fun route. Monsters of Rock rarely got done before due to scary ground fall potential for no apparent reason. Now it is a well protected classic gorge route on excellent quality rock. Same Monsters of Rock start. Do the 11b crux at the bottom and climb another 90 feet of 10a 5star quality gorge rock to an anchor at ~35m. If you don't have an 80m rope, tie a knot and watch your rope for the lower.

This climb starts up the a thin seam protected by small nuts.  Balancy moves up the seams lead to the first bolt and the crux.  The crux finishes with a reach to a good ledge and the second bolt.  Mantle up and clip a pin.  Now the fun begins.  Head straight up on big positive pockets (small cam placement) and slightly right to another bolt.  Continue up and slightly left on more big pockets and then head back right up low angle rock to an America death triangle anchor.

Starts up Rim Job but breaks right after the fourth bolt along a flake-like feature, then traverses back left to the anchors of Rim Job.

Chimney in corner leads to nice jams and stems past a steep section. After that, enjoyable face climbing continues to the anchors.

Tricky face climbing leads to a big roof, rest before the roof and then crank some 11+ moves to gain better holds above. Climb a pocketed face with spaced bolts and eventually up and left to the anchors.

A fine arete climb with a funky and spooky start.  This route climbs the arete right of the routes Paradise 5.9 and Monsters of Rock 5.11.

Easy scrambling up to the first bolt about 20' up, the crux comes immediately and once past the second bolt the climbing eases a bit and is just fine.

Maybe the best 5.7 in the Gorge.  Unlike another contender, High Seas on Warm Up, this pitch is not polished.

A decent shorty featuring typical ORG crimping on nice rock.  The crux is from bolts three through four.  There is a long runout from the last bolt to the anchors on 5.8ish terrain which can be protected with gear in .5" range.  Also, if you're feeling as weenieish as I did when I did MOR, there is a solid but tight green Alien placement between bolts 3 & 4.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in Banana Belt