I love this route! Such a pleasent surprise! 

  It looked fun, but it was way more fun than it looked. Really nice holds, great flowing movement and a crux that is technical and powerful are some of the attributes that make this route rock.  

  Climb in to and up the corner using some great holds and the crack.  Stemming will make it easier. A good rest before the roof lets you prepare for the crux. Move out right and layback and do some other funky stuff to gain a sweet finger crack that leads to the chains.

Brain Surgery 101

BBQ for Buddha

I Had a Good Name, But I Forgot (AKA for Lee, 'The route with the Epic Name')

Virtual Insanity

The Asylum

Crazy Pills

Pile-o-mania

Cuckoo's Nest

Blade

Nest Egg

An interesting route, I found it to have a few quirks that I wasn't that in to but it had some really fun moves. I found it to be reachy (and I'm 6' 2") and the bolt placement seemed a little weird. The first 2 bolts are good. The 3rd bolt felt like it could get you in to ground fall zone. The 3rd and 4th were off to the left farther than I thought they should be. The anchors were really hard to reach from what I saw as the finishing hold. That being said, the climbing it self was engaging mentally and physically and is very worth while if you can look past the quirks listed above.  

  Start up a technical face on pretty good holds that are sometimes far apart. After about 4 bolts the wall kicks back big time and you tackle a juggy roof to the anchors. Luckily there is a cool little cave rest at the transition from technical face to roof. So nestle in for a rest before punching it to the chains.

I would have given this three stars if only the rock quality was good and solid. But really it's good enough for a good time. I recommend this route if you are warming up for the other routes in the area.  

  Climb the really fun steming corner. Exit right at it's top before climbing out of belayer view for another 30 feet of fun climbing.

Crux is near the 3rd bolt   -solid sustained route may be more like 11+   -well worth getting on this route   -interesting/varied moves

Start up the route Crazy Pills for the first four bolts then break left across a slab and up into a corner system. Stem up the corner to an undercling, clip the bolt below the roof and make difficult moves on small holds to gain the roof (crux). Some of the key holds are not obvious and would make for a tricky onsight. After pulling the roof, climb mellow face to anchors . It is a full 100 feet so be mindful lowering off with a 60m rope.

"I feel like I'm taking Crazy Pills!" -Mugatu, ZoolanderThis one starts out lower angle and easier and builds to be steeper and more challenging as you get higher up. You will climb interesting features the whole way. A cool corner, an unlikely horn, flakes, a giant triangle pocket and more . Varried and engaging climbing all the way to the anchor.There is a fun extension possible. Clip the left anchor bolt then move up and left to the last two bolts of the new route just to the left of Crazy Pills and on to it's anchor. This adds a bit of fun slab climbing but doesn't add difficulty.

I don't know what the name refers to, but this route is not a "pile" the way I use the word to describe a climb. And though its not a classic either it would be considered worthwhile by most climbers I know. It is split in two parts by a cozy ledge at the halfway point. Both parts are fun, but the upper section rules.  

  To the right of Cuckoo's Nest start near a large tree and climb flake edges up and left to a good stance at a crimpy face. Climb some 5.10 crimp moves up to the ledge and move right to mantel it. Shake it out if you need to and make easy wondering moves until you find yourself at the right end of an intimidating traverse left. You would think that you would jam the crack but there are perfect pinches spaced along the 15 foot traverse that are perfect to pinch and lay back off of. There are no feet to speak of but the wall has good friction. If you get tired, stick a kneebar and take a shake. The anchors await just over the top of the flake.

Cuckoo's Nest is very short, but it contains some fun climbing. Worth doing if you happen to be up there.  

  Start by stick clipping the first bolt if you can otherwise make you way up to a good edge stemming your feet to get to the first bolt. Then the crux, Keep walking the feet up in to a good stem. A small Gaston on the left wall might be helpful, reach up to a good layback/fingerlock slot. A big undercling and a big move left will get you to the top.

This thing comes at you from all angles. It is just as tricky as it is powerful! But over all a bouldery adventure, thought i had it pretty well figured out til i got on it, then i figured out that i was wrong, haha... Once i did work it out i was pleased with the interesting strong movements. 

  Climb the steep arete and face past the 1st bolt. Sink in to a kneebar rest then engage in the second half of the crux. past 2 more bolts and on to an easier finish. 

  The only thing i didnt like about this route is the last 10 feet, or maybe just the anchor placement. It looks like you are supposed to move left and go to the chains directly but the more obvious climbing goes straight up and you can gain the chains from there easily after topping out the cliff. I'd say just do it however you like and it is still very much 5.12c. enjoy the ride.

To the left of Cuckoo's there is a quaint little corner with a crack in it. A little cruxy to get established but once you are started it eases up a bit. After not quite long enough you exit the corner and make a few moves to the right to clip the anchors of Cuckoo's Nest.

 Just a little practice rig but if you have the gear with you it's worth a quick run. The best way to get to those anchors anyway ;P

 Could use a little cleaning. I will try to get to it.

The Asylum is a very well hidden crag which is worth discovering. Next time you are cursing the crowds think about taking a jaunt out here for a nice change of scenery.  

  Located right above The Prudential, it shares many attributes with that cliff: steep routes, lots of sun, and killer rock quality. The big difference is that if you follow the beaten path through the western crags you will find The Prudential easily and you might not even see The Asylum. It is however quite easy to get to. From Yellow Knife just angle up and left up the gully and scramble over to the base. Look for a bolted corner climb to guide you in. Only takes a minute or two from Yellow Knife to the base of The Asylum.  

  Climbs are all bolted and range from 5.9 to 5.12b.  

  Note- You are directly above Prudential. Be careful not to drop or knock anything loose as it will likely roll off the top of Prudential, potentially hitting someone 100+ feet below. 

  This cliff is often closed in the spring for Peregrines.

Description

Location

Protection

Routes in The Asylum