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MapDescription
This is a really hard "boulder problem" of a climb where the shortness of the route concentrates the difficulty. Begin at the start of Goldilocks, then move up and right to the first bolt. Go around the arete to a very thin flake system and follow this to the anchor.
The crux is basically between bolts 1 - 4 and involves shouldery gastons, sidepulls, power crimps, and opposition off mediocre feet. Can be TRed by rappelling the first pitch of English Breakfast Crack.
I've seen this listed between 12b and 12c. It could be a style thing, but the climb felt stout for the grade.
Location
Just right of Goldilocks
Protection
6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor
Routes in Ad. Arch Rock
- 11The Principle5.12b/cSport