Burning Down the Malls

SQII says "awkward moves" lead to a "stunning crack". The scenery below this climb may be stunning, but the crack will probably disappoint you. Expect finicky Lemmon gear and difficult face climbing instead of slammer cams and jams. It might feel sandbagged for 5.11. The awkward moves might feel desperate as well...

Carefully tiptoe your way beyond "For Pete's Sake" (5.12-) on the east face of Mojo Wall, out onto a slab ledge that rests under a squat roof. You can see a single bolt and, if you're lucky, some tat waving in the wind around the corner (the tat is attached to your first bolt). Tie the belayer in to the visible bolt (easier if the belayer extends down to the little ledge below).

Reach around, clip the bolt, and get ready to pull. Clip a second bolt and make your way to the crack, which will take you almost all the way to the top of the formation. Where it ends, hike lichen to the top and trend left to find "For Pete's Sake's" anchors to bring up your follower.

Located farther around to the right of "For Pete's Sake" on the Mojo Wall, out on a prominent slab lying beneath a short, squat roof

Doubles green C3 to green C4 size; singles #1-#2; stoppers; slings; draws