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Peak Mountain 3

Helitack Route

FA Daniel L, May 2010
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1: Start on the North arm of the dome. Scramble up to a ledge to an obvious bolt, start some slippery slab climbing in a corner system that arrives at a crack system (one or two small hand size pieces useful). Leave the crack and continue up the sand slab to a two bolt anchor. 5.9+ 100'

Pitch 2: Climb slab up into a wide chimney system, then traverse right on featureless slab to some 4th class slabs. Follow 4th class up and left to an anchor that faces east. Belay here at a two bolt anchor... this is also part of the rap route. Come back to this point later. 100', 5.10

Pitch intermediate: walk south up the formation until you see an anchor at the top of a chimney. Start next pitch here. 3rd class, 80'

Pitch 3: Climb up a broken corner and arrive at a ledge. From here, climb a couple hard face moves to gain the remainder fun slab climbing. Arrive just below the summit formation. 90'

Rap: Rap route, hike back to the top of P2 and rap again (don't rap from the start of P3 anchor). There will be another rap station 80' down the east face. Make another rap to the road. 70 meter required.

Location

Just through the pass after faux falls, the formation is on the left at the intersection. Park here and walk to the NW side of the formation to find the starting ramp.

Protection

Several draws, couple small hand size pieces, tat for rap anchors.


Routes in Sheely Tunnel Wall


  1. 1
    Helitack Route
    5.11-
    Sport