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MapRiding the Tongue, variation on One No-Trump
Description
Below the diagonal, left-leaning (LL) crack, go up 15' in a weakness with gear, then traverse right to gain LL crack, and follow it under & past bulge. At a wide pod of crack, place #3 Camalot, and break right & over bulge, then run-it-out on moderate rock to the ledge below the tongue with bolts.
Continue up namesake tongue with a few tricky moves to rappel station.
Location
20' right of
Parade of Fools
, we traversed in from left to gain the crack on Hidden Pleasures.
One No-Trump starts further right 20' along the margin of the cliff.
Protection
SR to a #3 Camalot.
Routes in Hideaway Dome
- 4Riding the Tongue, variation on One No-Trump5.9+Trad