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Peak Mountain 3

Heartache Tonight

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Description

Start at the low, right-trending crack. Friction up off the ground by crimping a micro ledge above the crack (to the left), and undercling the crack. Follow the only visible features to your right by mantel-palming (fingers down) the slab and smearing some micro bulges. The middle third of the climb is a bit reachy with consistent 5.7 slab moves. There is one secure hold just below the rounded top -  a right-facing, saucer-sized flake that you can almost get your fingers into. Climb straight up from here with a few high steps and hands at a vertical bulge/rail. Friction up the rounded top to the middle (of 3) pine trees (where your TR anchor should be). This route keeps its grade from start to finish with no obvious crux; it requires sticky feet and some balance. This is another fun slab route in Cape Ann that needs some love.

Location

Look for the tallest, continuous face on the East Side. The route starts at the low, right-trending crack.

Protection

A toprope.


Routes in East Side


  1. 1
    Heartache Tonight
    5.7
    Tr