Crabby Appleton

Crabby Appleton is a faint crack system that travels up the right wall of the Crabby Appleton Gully. Start on a large ledge just below a traversing line of huecos. Pitch 1: Climb up and then right along the huecos, eventually gaining a crack heading upward. Ascend the crack to a stance. 130', 5.7 Pitch 2: Climb the crack, pass an intermediate belay stance with a bad bolt, climbing to a better stance with a bolt and a pin. 190', 5.8 Pitch 3: Continue up the crack, following the corner on the left as it arches up and left. When it begins to arch severely, step right onto the face and follow it to the ledge above. 120', 5.9 Pitch 4: Climb right 20', then head up a faint crack system through an overhang and follow it to the summit. 120', 5.9 Descent: Walk toward the canyon proper (northwest), following the ridge until some steep 4th class or a short rappel off to the right (east) leads to a gully/ramp system heading back into Crabby Appleton gully. From here, follow the gully for 5-10 minutes back to the base of the route.

Follow the right hand wall of the Crabby Appleton gully up past a small chockstone and a waterfall to the base of a monstrous chockstone. Climb up on the right side of it, squeezing through the top. From here, walk up about 20-30', and make your way to a nice ledge on the right hand side about 20' up.

A good assortment with a focus on the small to medium. A 4" cam comes in handy, but isn't mandatory.