Serpentine Dreams

The route name was inspired by the rattlesnake we almost stepped on while approaching the climb, as well as the sinuous nature of the line.

This climb goes up the steep and blank-looking panel of rock on the north face of the Matron. This part of the Matron reminds me of the

Roof Routes in Eldorado

. Climb up the chimney formed by the massive flake perched near the base, and stem across the gap to clip the first bolt. A nearby horn can be slung if the exposure feels too spooky.

From the first bolt, pull onto a wild band of conglomerate knobs, and follow the rising, knobby traverse up and right past the first 4 bolts. This traverse is 5.11-ish and reminiscent of

Velvet Elvis

. A crack appears suddenly above the 4th bolt, and a piece of pro here will be helpful to better protect a tricky sequence working up to the 5th bolt.

Crank up past the 6th bolt to the 7th, and arrive at a suddenly blank sheet of rock with few but mostly crisp and clean holds. The business of this pitch is climbing through the next 20 feet of thin climbing past 3 more bolts. There are lots of devious sequences, high steps, and interesting movement through there. Once through this section, larger holds allow easier 5.10 and 11- climbing to the arete (where it merges with the top of the

West Face's

1st pitch) and then to the anchor.

The start is located about 20 feet right of Northwest Crack and about 30 feet left of

Father Knows Best

. It starts inside the obvious chimney.

Rappel to the north or to the west from the existing 2-bolt anchor at the top of the first pitch of the

West Face

(those are nice, beefy glue-ins, as opposed to the scarefest bolts encountered lower on that pitch).

All bolts (13) except for one 1.25-inch piece (#0.75 Camalot). An optional long sling can be used to protect the 5.8-ish moves to the high first bolt. Bring long over-the-shoulder slings if you are going to lower off at the anchor to reduce rope drag. If cleaning the pitch on rappel (not a bad idea to reduce wear on the anchor bolts and your rope), be sure to bring a 70-meter rope!