- Edit (TBD)
Description
This is a bit contrived and the best section is short, but very fun climbing and surprisingly good pro make this a worthy addition to the
Pony Express
area. This route follows the arete immediately to the right of
Dandi-Line
and about 8 feet left of
Sister Morphine
. Start on
Dandi-Line
and step right onto the large block at the base of the arete, about 40 feet above the ground. The next 20 feet is the crux, with balancey arete-palming and face moves. Place pro in an intermittent vertical crack to the right and horizontals higher up. Make sure you have a #1.5 Friend or equivalent to protect a short slot at mid-crux. Stay on or right of the arete all the way to the top -- this feels contrived in the second half, where it would be easy to step left into
Dandi-Line
, but the crux section (and best climbing) is totally independent.
Protection
Standard Eldo rack with RPs, up to hand-size cams.
Routes in West Ridge - part C - Pony Express to Long John
- 7Pygmy Pony5.9+Trad