- Edit (TBD)
Description
I have been told by people in the know, that this line, unbelievable as it may be, apparently has never been led. I do know of at least two parties however who have toproped the line, and I presume there might be more. This route begins 15' L of
Knight's Move
at a seam splitting an overhang 10' above the trail. A #6 Camalot in the horizontal crack/slot to the L protects the initial crux pulling over the overhang onto the face. Once established on the face, look for a good nut placement in the seam, and continue up the crack and face with moderate climbing and adequate gear to a fun delicate finish at the choss band just below
KMs
p2 V-slot. The PG13 comes from the crux start, the big cam should keep you off the ground, but it would be a potentially awkward swinging fall into a dihedral. Once on the face there is plenty of gear when you need it.
An anchor can be set up in the crack at the start of p2 of KM to bring the second up, or easier, just place a TR directional here and traverse 30 R to the anchor atop
Chockstone
and descend to the ground to belay. Both of the first ascentionists led the pitch placing gear.
Location
The route is located at the very top of the West Ridge, ~15 to the L of
Knights Move
, locate an obvious seam through a roof 10 off the ground which opens to a small crack paralleling p1 of
Knights Move
and terminating 60 up at the base of
Knights Moves
p2 V-slot.
Protection
Gear: SR and a 5-6 cam or big bro for the start.
Routes in West Ridge - part E - top to Xanadu
- 15Between the Cracks5.10+Trad