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Peak Mountain 3

Between the Cracks

FA Wayne Crill and Brad Durbin, 2009
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

I have been told by people in the know, that this line, unbelievable as it may be, apparently has never been led. I do know of at least two parties however who have toproped the line, and I presume there might be more. This route begins 15' L of

Knight's Move

at a seam splitting an overhang 10' above the trail. A #6 Camalot in the horizontal crack/slot to the L protects the initial crux pulling over the overhang onto the face. Once established on the face, look for a good nut placement in the seam, and continue up the crack and face with moderate climbing and adequate gear to a fun delicate finish at the choss band just below

KM’s

p2 V-slot. The PG13 comes from the crux start, the big cam should keep you off the ground, but it would be a potentially awkward swinging fall into a dihedral. Once on the face there is plenty of gear when you need it.

An anchor can be set up in the crack at the start of p2 of KM to bring the second up, or easier, just place a TR directional here and traverse 30’ R to the anchor atop

Chockstone

and descend to the ground to belay. Both of the first ascentionists led the pitch placing gear.

Location

The route is located at the very top of the West Ridge, ~15’ to the L of

Knight’s Move

, locate an obvious seam through a roof 10’ off the ground which opens to a small crack paralleling p1 of

Knight’s Move

and terminating 60’ up at the base of

Knight’s Move’s

p2 V-slot.

Protection

Gear: SR and a 5-6” cam or big bro for the start.