The Whiskey Rat

Established ground-up and bolted on lead, a solid route with a large variety of climbing and good rock quality. This climb has a little of everything, with the exception of much jamming. All three anchors are equipped with 2 bolts and rap rings.

Pitch 1: 5.12, 60 ft; 6 bolts plus gear Start at the base of the detached pillar and gain its top (if you are wanting to jam cracks, better do it here). A nice crack on the right gobbles gear until the first bolt. A beautiful sequence of moves gets you to the hanging belay under the roof.

Pitch 2: 5.11, 100ft; gear Turn the roof to the right of the belay and progress up the prominent crack. Decently sustained climbing leads to a mantle on a ramp. Climb up and left on this ramp (there are gear opportunities if you choose not to run it out) until you reach the belay ledge at the bottom of a lettuce-covered right dihedral.

Pitch 3: 5.10 or 5.11, 120ft; 2 bolts plus gear Traverse right on the ledge and around the corner. Continue up the short corner into an obvious intermittent crack, providing ample pro. Continue up the crack (5.10) until reaching a ledge and trend right on easier ground through a series of ledges. More thin cracks get you to a sloped ledge with a left and right exit. The left exit is easier (5.10), with the direct exit (through the thin seam to a large chockstone) being harder (5.11) on small gear. Once you’ve topped this section, you’re at the base of the headwall on its right side. Clip the two bolts to your left while climbing through overhanging jugs on the right. Run it out a bit after the last bolt on easy terrain to the finish ledge.

Rap beta: Pitch 3 requires a 70m rope and relies on stretch to make it to Pitch 2’s anchor. Please knot your ropes.

Pitch 2 requires that you descend to the climber’s right and hook your rope in the prominent horn as you descend into the steep portion. You’ll need to start a swing in order to get to Pitch 1’s anchors due to the overhanging nature of the wall.

The climb starts about 20 meters to the left of Top Flite. The traditionally recommended approach for Trundle Wall is to rap in. Now, the hike in is arguably easier. From the tram terminal, continue down La Luz until ~200m before crossing the canyon proper. There is a distinct trail cutting off La Luz here. Make several short switchbacks, staying in the trees to the south of the more open canyon proper. This keeps you out of the bushes. After descending ~5 minutes, aim for a prominent gully in the canyon proper (look for a rocky section). A well-defined, steep trail leads straight down the canyon. There is a low branch you must duck under. About 100m further down, there is a very clear path cutting off to the right, about level with the northern base of Trundle Wall. Once on this path, there’s no missing the rest. It accesses the base of all climbs on Trundle Wall, starting from right to left.

One set of Camalots from .1 through 1, with triples from .3 to .5, and medium stoppers. 6 sport draws and a few alpine draws. Climbs and descends well with a single 70m rope.

A few extra pieces might be handy to the onsighting leader, but the above is all you really need.