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Peak Mountain 3

The Phantom

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Description

Starts with a straight in hand crack with some finger locks on a steep face. Pass a very old ring on a piton before making some sport moves to a fun mantle. On pitch two climb a short wide crack to the left. Continue up discontinuous cracks and then follow a low angle arete to fixed anchors at the peak. This last section is unprotected (and therefore the R rating) but pretty easy.

Location

This route is located on the left side of the Gardener's Wall. Look for a dark water stain that gives the false impression of a corner. Getting to the start is a pain in the ..... You can't walk along the base of the wall to get to and from the routes on the right. So approach the route from the left or any way that works. Note that there is a short section of wide class five climbing to get on top of the boulder where the start of the route lies.

Protection

Bring a standard rack up to a fist size piece. Build a gear anchor at the top of pitch one. There are fixed anchors at the top of pitch two. I walked off so I'm not sure if you can lower with one rope. Two ropes should get you down safely.