South Face Direct

This is the aid climb directly in the middle of the South Face of Independence Monument. Locate the start right of the

Independence Chimney

at two boulders that appear to have blue horizontal stripes on them. Maybe the original Independence test piece (done in 1971). It was still way spicy when we did it back in 2000. I have heard that it has gone clean since then, once by a soloist a few years before we got on her. And again by another solo fellow around 2003 - 2004. For obvious reasons this climb has seen a limited number of ascents, probably less than twenty. I have personally seen a French dude take a "HUGE" whipper from high on the mud band pitch. He escaped unscathed and it appeared, went on to finish the route. I whipped on pitch three trying to free the slabby pockets that link the corners. Things up here are generally pretty poor as far as the stone goes. Another observation is that the piton scars get a lot smaller as you get higher (lots of suitors for the first few pitches but not so many near to the top).

We nailed only near the ground on pitch one (one toucan as I recall) and throughout the crux on pitch four which involved a fair amount of nailing including a few pieces of ice gear, pounded directly into the mud filled cracks. Pretty sporty in general, the last pitch throws a few swings at you too.

It should be of note that the Monument has adopted a current policy of banning the use of pitons in the park.

Park at Lower Monument Trail head and hike for an hour. Descend

Otto's Route

(better with two ropes).

All anchors have at least one 3/8" bolt, some have two. Bring a full standard aid rack maybe singles from a #4 Camalot on down with extra hands, thin hands, micro TCUs, clean aid gear, nuts, RPs, a hammer (in case any of the fixed angles blow), the top requires a natural belay.