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Peak Mountain 3

Jolly Rodger

FA 1979 Steve Grossman and Charles Cole
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This climbs up the SW face above Little John and tackles beautiful golden stone all the way to an independent topout. This route is definitely for advanced aid climbers because the climbing is often difficult and scary. Multiple parties have bailed after 100' plus falls on the lower parts ( pitches 4 &6) and there is the so called "body-cleaving pinnacle" below the11th pitch, the one up to the Golden Doubloon pitch, don't fall here. The Doubloon pitch 12 is unrelentingly steep and challenging and long. The haul bags hang in space at the top of this pitch. The pitches above are highly technical and exciting with some of the best views to be had from any El Cap route. There are some loose features that need to be negotiated higher and a fully independent topout makes this a must do for those who quest for the gnar. Expect lots of sun on this route.

Location

Hike up the SW side to Little John Pinnacle.  From the top of this,, climb straight up on techno-aid upwards. Fixing to Heart ledges is quite reasonable. Plan on 2 days to get to Heart ledges if hauling.

Protection

3 of each cam to 4", 1 ea 5" & 6",double to triple set of wired nuts including tiny, many beaks - all sizes, 2 ea KB's & Bugs, 2 ea LA's thin to medium, 2ea baby angles, a shit ton of heads- mostly 1's & 2's and a few 3 &4s & a selectionof circleheads, 2 ea hooks