West Pillar "Dream in the Spirit of Mugs"

The West Pillar of the Eye Tooth is one of the finest alpine rock climbs in Alaska. This 2900 foot free climb quests up mostly quality rock in an outrageous position. The views of Denali and the surrounding mountains while on route are incredible. This climb provides a feel of being on El Cap with granite soaring out every direction for thousands of feet. While this climb contains only a few difficult pitches, the easier climbing is often runout and wet. Pitches 13-16 are very loose but other than that, the rock great. This should be high on the list for anyone planning to climb rock in the Ruth. The summit ridge is frequently covered in snow. Rap the route to descend. There is a topo available in the Talkeetna Ranger station. There is a better one in "Alaska Climbing" by Joseph Puyear which we found to be very accurate. Note that the first half of pitch 6 has fallen off. It now goes at 5.9 and contains some scary loose flakes. The glacier has melted about 60 feet below the first roof shown in the topo as of 2021.

West pillar of the Eye Tooth

Doubles from .2 to #3, nuts, 2x60m ropes