- Edit (TBD)
Description
Pitch 1 - Climb the wide looking hand crack to a 2 bolt, 5.11b crux. You can also continue out left up the crack as an easier variation at 5.8. Scamper up moderate ledges to the 2-bolt anchor above.("Heart Of Gold Ledge"-this is the best anchor to rappel to from Routes 1,2,3,4 and 5! This is the best rappel to the ground...)
Pitch 2 - Climb straight up through the 2 roofs above(5.11a) and continue up the beautiful bolted line on high quality, glacially polished granite.(5.10+) ...A few pieces of gear in the beginning and at the end of this pitch brings you up to the 2-bolt anchor.
Pitch3-Follow bolts up under the roof(5.10d) and plug some gear before pulling the lip(5.10c). A thin finger size seam leads up to the large ledge at the top 2-bolt anchor.
Protection
Each pitch requires gear placement. An assortment of nuts and a single rack of cams should suffice.... 2-bolt anchors at the end of each pitch allow for a direct rappel descent. To climb to the summit would require another pitch at 5.5 for about 150-200 more feet....
Routes in 7. F.Y. (Forever Young) Wall
- 3After The Gold Rush5.11bSport · Alpine · Trad