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Peak Mountain 3

Hammerhead

FA Lee Brinckerhoff and Marc Beverly
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Approach as for Bush Shark Spire Route.

Keeping with the theme names of the area, Hammerhead starts to the right of Bush Shark Spire Route and left of the Bush Shark Gully.

P-1: Keeping the riff-raff off, the heady start follows the bolted line up and to the right to the gully for a quick rest. Then cruise out left and up over bulging terrain to the large red overhang where you'll traverse nearly straight left to the hidden but nice belay stance, a perfect small ledge just above the main roofs at half height on the Bush Shark Spire.

P-2: A fixed nut should start you off on the gently overhanging and sustained left-trending fissure that eventually opens up and grants you some good gear placements. Clean falls may be enjoyed in a very aesthetic venue. When the corner/roof feature near the top is reached the belay anchor is up and slightly right, though you will first move left to get around the roof.

To descend rap the route or down climb to the Bush Shark Spire Route rap (two sets of bolted anchors to the ground) from the notch. Or, better yet, climb Blood In The Water, 5.12c 17 bolts, and another easier trad pitch (5.8) after that to gain the top rap anchor station.

Protection

TCUs, Camalots to #2, Wires, draws. 60m rope.