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Peak Mountain 3

Emperor of The Sky

FA Bob Branscomb/Mark Watkins 7/11/2021
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Three pitches total.

P1: do the first pitch of Ruby Tuesday (10a).

P2: step down and left from the Ruby Tuesday belay and scoot around the corner then up for 25 ft (class 4) to the belay anchor at base of the big gold dihedral.

P3: climb the dihedral (10a/b) to top 3 bolt hanging belay anchor.

Rappelling back to second anchor could be problematic as the dihedral leans so far over left.  Can rappel to the ground from top with 70m rope. Can rappel to the first belay of Requiem for a Nun and down from there with a 60m rope.

Fingerlocks, liebacking and underclings with a couple of hand jams, poor feet in places.  Trad climb with bolt protection.

Crux is around the second to the fifth bolt, then there's a rest. However, the whole pitch is quite sustained and you'll be pumped by the anchor. I'm calling it 10a/b but it feels like an old school 5.9 in the Valley. Old memories of old terrors I guess.

I think this is the best single pitch on Aspen Grade Wall to date...really an outstanding piece of work.

Location

The obvious rather intimidating gold left leaning dihedral high between the second pitches of Requiem for a Nun and Ruby Tuesday. Climb the first pitch of Ruby Tuesday to the first anchor.  Scoot around the corner down and left of the anchor, then up to an anchor at the base of the dihedral. The dihedral above is Emperor of the Sky.

Protection

About 18 clips should do it-protection bolts installed on the right hand wall.  Three bolt hanging belay anchor at the top. Well protected.