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Peak Mountain 3

The Ramp

FA Gary HIcks
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Mike Hill's guide has a pretty good topo of this route including the below P2 variation.Pitch 1 (5.5, ~80 feet): Climb the trough up to an ample belay ledge on the left.Pitch 2 (~80 feet, 5.7): Step out on the face and then up past a bolt, piton, and a second bolt and then up to a ~horizontal ledge system; take this ledge system right to the first tree and belay.Pitch 2 variation(~80 feet, 5.8. PG13): At the ~horizontal ledge system, continue straight up a smallish crack system, getting pro where you can; surmount a large ledge with one old bolt on the ledge and one several feet higher and belay.Pitch 3 (~80 feet, 5.6/5.7): Continue almost straight up easy terrain above the first tree; getting pro where you can; attain a ~horizontal vegetated ledge/weakness with bolt to the right; trend right and then up past a bolt; in short order, find belay ledge at base of a relatively clean dihedral.Pitch 4 (~80 feet, 5.7 ): Climb above the belay; one can then make a diversion up and left to get pro high and then down climb; trend up and right on otherwise easy but runout terrain until one can reach back left to edge of a roof and pro; climb past the roof and continue up past a piton (6/2019) until forest needles are under foot; at that point look right to large belay tree with slings.

Location

GPS COORDINATES FOR BASE OF THE CLIMB: 35.20254, -106.44716

The Ramp route is down Echo Canyon on skier's right. There are two ways to approach the climb:

i) follow climber's trail until about 10 feet before it passes just to the right of the obvious start of Crackula; looking skier’s right, locate rocky out croppings on the other side of the canyon; your goal is to reach a climber’s trail at the base of those lower out croppings that continues down to a slab traverse to the start of the climb; so, head skier’s right on faint trail that will soon head down canyon on obvious climber’s trail about 30 feet before going rightward once more to the base of the rocky out croppings.

ii) we did this approach based on a description from Marc Beverly: stay on climber's trail past Crackula and almost to Bush Shark Spire route (skier's left side of canyon); about 30 yards before the start of Bush Shark Spire, the climber's trail reaches a low point before gaining elevation; at this low point look for a faint trail cutting across the vegetated gully to talus; at the talus head up through more vegetation (some further pruning here would be nice), and then 3rd class climbing to the base of the climb.

The exit: continue up above the top-of-P4 belay tree for 20 feet or so, then traverse northerly and down a little into a gully that one ascends to get up near the summit of The Point. This gully is challenging. Instead, consider getting up on the ~east shoulder of The Point by climbing out of the gully to the right on Runnel Runner (thanks Marc!).

Protection

Standard rack to 3".