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Peak Mountain 3

Cactus Climb

FA Carl & Lou Horak, 1971(?)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This climb is perhaps better now that the cactus isn't there.

Stem past tricky moves off the ground. Easy 5.6ish climbing for the next 30' of the climb leads to a final thin section where the crack narrows to a finger crack, then pinches to a seam. A 2' foot roofs bar progress to the top, which is passed by a big move for the topout jug. The pro at the crux is small nuts or TCUs.

It is also possible to escape left 2/3 of the way up and avoid the crux.

Location

The shallow corner 10' left of the splitter crack (Beginner's Hand Jam). The namesake cactus used to reside on the first ledge 12' up, but it looks like it will never grow back.

Protection

1 ea. cams to 2", 1 ea. nuts, including RPs. A 2-bolt anchor for Cactus Climb, reachable from the very top, was installed to prevent further damage to trees.