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Peak Mountain 3

Buffalo Gun

FA Murf, R.Bishop 10/2004
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route is on a formation just above the main Silerado group. The start of Buffalo Gun is about 70' directly behind and somewhat left of the finish for The Golddigger. It starts on large blocks next to a large tree. It is the obvious splitter which starts wide and ends as a hand crack.

Big hands, fists, hip scums and other fun tricks are required to bypass wide sections with hand jamming in between. The top third is fun hand jamming to the top. The climbing is physical and non-stop jamming. If you or your hands are soft, you might want to tape as the rock, while solid, is rough.

I would say it is harder and more physical than the Golddigger below it. 3 of 5 *'s if you enjoy physical big hands climbing.

Protection

Doubles from #.75 Camalot up, with a single #3.5 and #4.

No anchor exists; descend either via a jump on back of the north (climber's right) edge of the formation or a simul-rap. Note the jump has a 35-foot drop if flubbed.