- Edit (TBD)
Description
The climb goes directly up the corner, flake system. The start is a pretty obvious lay-back until the flake can be reached. The flake is really sharp and thin, so if it gets lots of climbing, parts of the flake may break off. The crux is getting through the flake. There is an important hold in the middle of the flake that unlocks the climb. There is an important foot hold about 8-inches to the left of the flake. Avoid going 2-3 feet left of the flake as this is variation 1.Variation 1:
5.8 First climbed by Cyrus Ferri 9/4/20. To go through the crux, use 1 or 2 foot holds that are part of Dirty Pirate Corner, and use a crimp that his about 3-feet to the left the flake.
Location
The obvious right-facing corner, flake system four feet to the right of Dirty Pirate Corner.
Protection
Setting up the anchor is not for the faint of heart. It is possible to girth hitch a flake that is about 15-20 up and to the right (climber's right) of the top of the climb. The tree at the top of Dirty Pirate's Corner can be used as back-up, but it is not really in the right location. The trees directly above the climb are two small to use. There may be some additional opportunities for anchoring by using cams or by finding trees further up the hill.