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Peak Mountain 3

Franklin's Frosty Squeeze

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Description

If this doesn't catch your eye on the approach, you might not be alive.

This route starts wide (maybe 7") and gets gradually wider stopping at about 10". If you're lucky you can squeeze inside for the top out, if not prepare for some slightly overhanging chicken wings.

Very reminiscent of Pratt's Crack though it's slightly harder; if it was as long it would be just as good. Rock quality is excellent, and just enough edges to rest on to keep it in the 5.9 range.

Fairly easy to toprope after leading Franklin's Frosty Funeral or bring yer big gear and get it on lead. If leading you can either finish up at the top of the wide (bring cordelette to build anchor, no bolts) and scramble/downclimb the back, or for TR laps probably better to continue straight up and use the anchors at the top of Franklin's Frosty Funeral (10c)

Location

Visible on the approach as the widest crack you can see, directly across from the bottom of the Upper Gorge approach trail

Protection

Blue big bros fit well (and even a green, at spots), I pushed a Merlin 8 (9" cam) but it was very tipped out toward the top.

Probably a 12" cam would be better for a pusher, but as long as you have some blue bros for backup you should be good.