- Edit (TBD)
Description
In the middle of the SW face lies a double crack system. This is the line. It is technically the easiest of the routes here; however, it climbs longer than it appears to be. Some refer to this as 'Twin Cracks.'
Ascend either the slightly bushy left-angling groove or the flake system (the start of
Gollum's Arch
) to sloping ledge area. Continue up a water groove to a good rest. Move left to the double, flared, water-groove cracks. Ascend either crack, a combination of the two, or the fin between to the top. At approximately 130', there is a set of slings at the base of a large block. Just above lies a large tree in a small alcove without slings. No offwidth technique is required.
Walk-off left or right or rappel from the above slings. Note, a 60m rope only reaches the sloped ledge area & requires a 4th class downclimb to the base.
Protection
Wires, cams to #4 Camalot, a few large hexes. An extra #2 or #3 may be nice.