- Edit (TBD)
Description
SO there they were, end of the day, enjoying a beer and/or cider, talking about the things we talk about after some good redpoints, and SOMEONE came up with the idiotic idea of doing a traverse of the whole wall. And off they went.
The crux is at the very end, passing under "Loading Zone", a no feet thin hand crack. The whole is quite entertaining, with a lot of thought needed to protect it well while reducing rope drag. Stay high enough to avoid groundfall potential.
P1) 5.8 Go as far as you can until the rope drag keeps you from moving. Lower off.
P2) 5.10- The follower is as exposed as the leader: It's a traverse!
Location
Starting at the far left of the wall, climb up ~15', and begin moving right. The route stays under the lower roofs across the wall. When the rope drag becomes unbearable, lower off, and bring the follower along. Ends after passing under the roof below the route "Loading Zone" before the rock becomes a jumble of weeds and moss. The follower must downclimb the end, moving protection down with him/her.
Protection
Double rack, .3-3". Nuts. Many many shoulder length and double length slings. Draws. There is a wide range of protection in most areas. This thing eats up gear, necessary to protect ground fall and the follower.
Routes in The Loading Zone
- 1The Three Idiots Traverse5.10-Trad