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MapDescription
The hardest route at Gallows Edge. Stick-clip the high first bolt and work your way through short, steep and powerful moves through a series of two-finger pockets near the arete to a huge jug below the very high first bolt. Using the arete on the right apparently makes it a bit easier (5.11-ish) but seems natural and arguably more fun. A few more steep moves lead to the second bolt before the angle backs off past the third bolt to the anchors for The Fire Swamp.
Location
Listed as route #4 on the Gallows Edge Main Wall photo topo.
Protection
3 bolts to shared anchors with The Fire Swamp. The first bolt is way up there and the crux moves come before it so using a stick clip is highly recommended.
Routes in Main Wall
- 6Prince Humperdink5.12aSport · Tr