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Peak Mountain 3

Incubating Incubus

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Description

Sit-start inside of the large, well-hidden cave with both hands just below the large shelf feature. Move up to a meathook on the shelf then out to a smooth right-facing sidepull. From here a big move gains a nice flat edge for the left hand. From this edge, lock it off to a sloper before piano-matching and executing an exciting and balancy big last move to a jug sidepull before topping out on positive holds.

Location

Only the dedicated and devoted will likely find this one by themselves.

Realistically if you are good at spelunking and rock scrambling, it may be easiest to find this problem with no pads. It is actually very close to "Chinese Connection" and the Pit Boss Area. When staring at "Chinese Connection" look to the right at some stacked boulders that lie next to the giant boulder with the tall 30+ foot face. The uphill side of this boulder has a sort of cave you can crawl through that will allow the person to overlook the Pit Boss Area. Once here there is another cave entrance just on the other side. Go through this entrance and after 4 feet the cave will open up into a larger one with a large opening to top out the three different boulders dab-free.

With pads and a crew, I'd recommend starting at the Hatchet Area, and hike up and around Pit Boss Area traversing the well-vegetated hillside on the faint trail. There are a few tricky high steps along the pathway, and then the hiker will step down a few boulders into somewhat of a clearing. Once at this clearing, there is a large corridor to the left that contains "Taint No Thing" and "F.Y.G.". "Incubating Incubus" is not found in this corridor, but a separate cave found 10-15 yards in the opposite direction. The opening of the cave for the topout will be easy to find, and the pale freshly cleaned boulder itself will be easily distinguishable. 

Protection

2 or 3 pads


Routes in Incubus Area


  1. 2
    Incubating Incubus
    V4
    Bouldering