Luna Glacier

(Note: 'Luna Glacier' is not the official name, but since that hanging glacier rings Luna Cirque pretty nearly, that's what this route is called.)

The original route, as coming from Luna Cirque. A lot of snow climbing from the cirque, then a few leads of class 4 rock to the summit. The crux of the route is the hanging glacier below the peak, which may be impassable in late season. Make sure it is in condition. Ascend up the glacier just to the south of Phantom; continue up it  where it narrows and flows from higher up on the peak. Turn north and climb over a rock step to the highest snowfield. Climb this to the notch, where the rock climbing begins. Two or three pitches of easy slab climbing lead to the ridge; avoid towers on the south and climb the 25-foot summit block. Rappel when possible and downclimb the route to the snow. Grade II from high camp in Luna Cirque.

On the east side of the Northern Pickets, from Luna Cirque.

Runners and a few pieces of gear, helmets, rope.