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Peak Mountain 3

Hell Freezes Over

FA Chris Archer, Sarah Spaulding, Alan Higham, Nick Archer
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The first pitch starts above the trail at the last switchback below the upper south face of Red Devil, 10a/b; 95'; 11 bolts. A boulder problem start leads to lots of fun, juggy 5.8 - 5.9 climbing. The second pitch starts off the ledge and ascends a cream colored face to a powerful, steep short arete with improbable moves in great position, 12a; 35'; 4 bolts.

There are two variations to the second pitch. Hellzapoppin (11c/d) climbs the first 2 bolts on the second pitch, traverses left around the corner, and face climbs to the anchors. Hellacious (11d) climbs the arete and face 8' left of the second pitch and joins Hellzapoppin where it hits the west face.

Protection

Pitch 1: 11 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor. Pitch 2: 4 bolts to 2 bolt anchor.