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MapDescription
Bust out your big cams for this beast. A #4 will protect you at the start but it's all #6 or bigger from the roof to the chains. Rewatch "Wideboys" for some chickenwing beta then get to roof pullin. The climbing eases after the roof move and plenty of face holds get you secure while you bump your boat anchor up the crack. I put in chain anchors and getting to the top to hang a rope is a breeze.
Location
The obvious clean wide crack just right of Geisha Girl.
Protection
#4 and #6(×2)
Routes in Oriental Wall
- 2Gray kabuki5.10+Trad