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Peak Mountain 3

Knuckle Head

FA Jim Zook, Dan Langmade 1982
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Good chimney route and decent protection with some loose funk.  A nice introduction to Superstition chimneys.  Enter chimney and remain inside until it ends on a pillar like detachment.  The chimney gets wider near the top and good face and feet features on either wall are helpful  Bridge the short gap that protects with a small cam and scramble to summit.   The climb never feels difficult or desperate, maybe more 5.6 than 5.7. 

Location

Currently the only route on this formation.  Locate obvious chimney on the northeast side.  From the Treasure Loop Trail, it takes less than 10 minutes to reach the route with minimal bushwhacking.  This is also the most northernmost tower of the Bandito cluster and the one closest to The Hand-Prong complex.

Protection

Nuts and medium sized cams. Two Bandito bolts for the single line rappel.