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Peak Mountain 3

The Clan of the Cave Bear

FA Bloom/Cosentino 200
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1 - Climb the hands to wide hands to O/W splitter to the base of a chimney. Belay of off small cams and a #5. Fun Pitch! ~100ft (5.10)

P2 - Mantal the loose block, clip the bolt, Do some really fun exposed chimney moves, then work your way up a long chossy corner clipping another bolt at about 60ft. Pass that bolt continuing up until the only obvious climbing is to traverse left. Take a deep breath and fearlessly launch into the traversing choss fest through a 5.9 roof, R/X. Pull the roof and traverse left a short distance until you find a ledge with a poor gear anchor. ~170ft (5.9 R/X)

P3 - Continue to traverse left placing marginal gear until you get to an arete. Pop around the arete and hand traverse left until you can drop into a chimney. Belay off of a tree. ~50 feet (5.7 R)

Only the first pitch gets 2 stars. The 2nd and 3rd pitch are reserved for people with a very strange attraction to dangerous choss.

Location

This climb begins on the right hand side of the obvious formation 15 - 20 minutes up the Bear Mountain trail. Clan of the Cave Bear takes the right crack.

Decent - Drop into a steep gully left of the belay tree and hike back around to your packs.

Protection

(1) .3 - #1 (2) #2 - #4 (1) #5 lots of runners (1) 60m rope


Routes in Bear Mountain