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Peak Mountain 3

If You Don't Leave Me, I'll Find Someone Who Will

FA Bernard Gillet and Paul Bodnar, 2003
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This route ascends a finger- and hand-crack to a roof. Going straight up through the roof keeps the grade at 9 while traversing right at the obvious flake to the next crack is mid-10 (flared jams; small feet; there's a perfect #0.75 Camalot to protect the traverse right).

Location

This route is on the Top 40 Wall (see Third Band overview photo for the location). One can access this by continuing right from Space Balls to a rappel anchor atop Flying Fish. Rappel down and you'll be at the left margin of the Top 40 Wall.

The descent is a third-class scramble to the climber's right.

Protection

Standard rack; emphasize smaller cams and small to medium stoppers. Hand-size cams are useful for the belay.