Big, Big, Monkey Man

This is a great pumpfest just left of

Redneck Hero

. It probably deserves a full three stars, but I gave it only two because the stone at the very top is a bit suspect - not as good as

Redneck

. However, as long as the holds stay put, it is a killer line.

To do this line, cross the creek on the upstream side of the cliff. Once you get to the wall, follow little ledges out as far right as you can go - this is the start of

Pocket Hercules

. Climb

Pocket Hercules

for 30 feet or so (requires gear) until you reach the first bolt.

The route then trends right up the overhanging wall, involving big reaches to mostly good holds.

It is totally fun - a solid letter grade harder than

Redneck

and every bit as cool.

You place gear for about 30 feet, then you clip 5 bolts to the anchors. The specific gear recommended is: a couple of #1.5 Friends, a couple of small nuts, and maybe a large stopper.

Per

ANGUS WIESSNER

: the first two pieces are fixed nuts, then a #0.5 Camalot, fixed nut, a stuck #0.75 Camalot, a fixed quickdraw, 5 bolts (clip the 2nd with a regular length sling), and a 2 bolt anchor. Consider using extension slings on all gear placement. It is best to clean this on toprope or use the fixed/cleaning draw.