Out of the Frying Pan Into the Fire

Covered in Eric Bjorstad's book, I stumbled upon this climb. It is about 1/4" up (west) of the concentration of slab routes lower in the canyon.

Ascend a delightful finger crack to a ledge. This crack faces east. Above the crack clip a few bolts then move up and left into a corner. Another clip and one or two pieces of gear will get you to a ledge with a two bolt anchor. This route is surprisingly good. Except for a sugary section halfway up, the route is quite clean. With more travel, it'll get even cleaner. There are two slab moves.

I personally felt this to be better than

Carter's 5.8 dihedral

and

Luhrs Route

.

Small to mid-size cams up to 2", quickdraws, one rope.